July 19/20/21-Sweet Virginia
I caught the ferry over again and stopped and had a real meal in the White's Ferry Grill. I asked why there wasn't a welcome to Virginia sign and the lady working the grill suggested she would go put one up herself. I enjoyed the Turkey BLT with "American Cheese". I asked what American Cheese was and she didn't know. Turns out, it is a Kraft single like we are used to in Canada. As I was leaving, I caught sight of a car coming in with two cat carriers on the back of his bike. He had taken time to ensure they were cool but it seemed like a cruel thing to do to your pets. It's hot and cramped in the those cages.
I drove down the trail for a bit and almost stopped at Turtle's Run campsite but went just a little further since I'd done so little bike work. I did stop at Chisel Branch Campsite and found another biker already setting up. Richard was doing an overnight bike trip and had come up from Arlington, Virginia. The dip in the Potomac was wonderfully refreshing and the quite was awesome. We chatted a bit while he ate dinner. I tuned up my banjo and found that it sounded ok even with the soak in the rain the other night. I played a few tunes while the ciccadas hummed along. With dusk, I started getting sleepy and called it a night.
The next morning, it was gloriously sunny and I realized I had no desire to leave the idealistic spot I'd found. I went into Poolesville and bought groceries and hung out at the library and McDonalds. I came back after a few more hours and read, "The Brethern" by John Grisham. A family came in and they were followed up by 3 bikers. The family was odd because I believe they just walked in from the parking lot located 500 metres down the road. The bikers were headed to Pittsburgh from DC. They were nice enough guys. I played a little bit more banjo in the twilight and then did some writing. The family was really noisy. They were up until at least midnight. The bikers and myself were out at 9 pm.
I got up early and found the bikers were moving too. I gathered my stuff up quick and pointed the bike south. The closer to DC I got, the faces changed. Lots of Chinese and Vietnamese and even Indians started appearing. The foot traffic started to increase as well. I was getting into DC proper. It was still a park but much busier. At Arlington, I jumped into the city and made it up to the Safeway to grab supplies. I asked the cashier for rough directions on how to get out but she had no idea. I then choose a library and this took me to a smaller part of town. The only problem is that it has started to rain. Its not a hard rain but there is enough that things will get wet and it is a little annoying riding wet. I'm going to wait it out a bit. I will try to make Manassas today or get as close as possible. Glad to be out of Washington.
I drove down the trail for a bit and almost stopped at Turtle's Run campsite but went just a little further since I'd done so little bike work. I did stop at Chisel Branch Campsite and found another biker already setting up. Richard was doing an overnight bike trip and had come up from Arlington, Virginia. The dip in the Potomac was wonderfully refreshing and the quite was awesome. We chatted a bit while he ate dinner. I tuned up my banjo and found that it sounded ok even with the soak in the rain the other night. I played a few tunes while the ciccadas hummed along. With dusk, I started getting sleepy and called it a night.
The next morning, it was gloriously sunny and I realized I had no desire to leave the idealistic spot I'd found. I went into Poolesville and bought groceries and hung out at the library and McDonalds. I came back after a few more hours and read, "The Brethern" by John Grisham. A family came in and they were followed up by 3 bikers. The family was odd because I believe they just walked in from the parking lot located 500 metres down the road. The bikers were headed to Pittsburgh from DC. They were nice enough guys. I played a little bit more banjo in the twilight and then did some writing. The family was really noisy. They were up until at least midnight. The bikers and myself were out at 9 pm.
I got up early and found the bikers were moving too. I gathered my stuff up quick and pointed the bike south. The closer to DC I got, the faces changed. Lots of Chinese and Vietnamese and even Indians started appearing. The foot traffic started to increase as well. I was getting into DC proper. It was still a park but much busier. At Arlington, I jumped into the city and made it up to the Safeway to grab supplies. I asked the cashier for rough directions on how to get out but she had no idea. I then choose a library and this took me to a smaller part of town. The only problem is that it has started to rain. Its not a hard rain but there is enough that things will get wet and it is a little annoying riding wet. I'm going to wait it out a bit. I will try to make Manassas today or get as close as possible. Glad to be out of Washington.
July 21/22- Southern Rain
It's funny how a downpour will weaken my resolve. I waited a bit in the library but really did not embrace the idea of biking further and then trying to camp in some alcove where I wouldn't get wet (or dry!). I had a couchsurfing host reply and turn me down but low and behold, got a response from the Linden's who were moving but graciously offered me a place to dry out and a meal! I bought two books, "The Man called Ove" and "Cold Mountain" since I am reading things Civil War. I decided to head over to the Starbucks to warm myself up and made it soaking in the three minutes. I spotted a younger Chinese woman holding a sign saying, "single mother" and her toddler sun was playing with cars on one of the tables. I gave her a couple bucks as I went in. It was good to taste the warmth and sweetness of the White Chocolate Mocha I ordered. I had been a big fan of these in the previous winter. I tried to use the internet but they wanted a Zip code so I borrowed the store one. I read and wrote and occupied myself until it was time to head over to the Lindens. I was surprised at the diversity here. Lots of Middle Eastern people as well as African-Americans, Indians, Chinese, and Hispanics. Good to see some colour again!
After about a 1/2 hour there, one of the employees went outside and asked the lady to move. It really angered me because she wasn't bothering anyone and was passive about asking for money. It was also pouring rain outside. I couldn't imagine that she was doing this for fun on such a dismal day. I almost asked for the manager but choose instead to write a post to the Starbuck Facebook site. I'm not sure what it will do but I felt I had to do something. Instead of the rain tapering off, it just kept coming down. Hard. At 5;30, I texted that I intended to do the 5 km ride and set out. The amount of water coming down was so severe the storm drains couldn't handle it and I was peddling up small streams. I made it to the Lindens and was created by Tate the dad. He had me put my bike in the moving container and I got a shower and even laundry. I met Sarah, the mom, Teddy, the older brother, Truman, the youngest, and Tank, the Chocolate lab who was being housesat. I felt so good to get washed up and feel human again. They provided me with a local beer named, "Grateful". It was delicious. We talked about attitudes and politics and purpose of my trip. I'm finding that our neighbours are interested in perceptions of their government and their country. Tate said I would find a more pro-trump feeling the further south I got. Their two sons are in Spanish Immersion which was neat to talk about since I am in a French Immersion school. They told me that the rain was coming down in record amounts. So happy to be inside that night.
They fed me dinner and we talked more about he community. Lots of Hispanics and whites are in the minority. Their Dad had done a cross-country bike trip and they had done some supported touring in Europe and loved it. They don't have many people stay with them but I was grateful! WE settled in to watch , "Percy Jackson". I'm not familiar with this member of the Jackson 5 but I do like my music! :) The students at school are reading but I rarely read Children's Literature. I will say the movie was highly enjoyable and I will be eager to discuss this in September. Who would have thought the Greek Mythology would make such a comeback? I took a picture for the memories and said my goodnights. I had a great sleep in a comfortable bed and was surprised that I slept in until 6:30! I hurried my dry things together and grabbed a quick bite before heading out the door. I got to say goodbye to the family who was just waking up. I was happy to see blue skies and sunshine. I pulled out of there and headed to Manassas. I made a quick stop at the local store and grabbed some milk, donuts, and some fruit. The café in the store looked like a homeless shelter. I guess this is where the down and outs go on a Sunday morning. I fit right in! I took the train trail out of the city and competed with other joggers, cyclers, and walkers to make it to Vienna. I stopped there and just took a highway down to Manassas Battlefield park. No sign of rain yet but it was in the sky with greying clouds. I checked out the park, took part in a walking tour of the Henry House, and saw a demonstration of an artillery piece. Manassas is famous for being the first major battle of the conflict and is the spot where "Stonewall" Jackson was given his name. It was also a wake up call for both groups that the conflict would last. People came down from Washington to watch the battle and got caught up in the panicked Union retreat.
I'm going south of the city to stay with a Margaret Smith. It will be my second consecutive bed! What luck! the roads here aren't too cycle friendly but people are respectful of distance. I should also note that I got a really harsh email from a gentlemen up near Gettysburg. I had emailed him and thought I had contacted him to cancel but the messages must have gotten lost in problems I had with the WS website. He told me he'd made a dinner and would blacklist me from the site if he could have. I felt terrible. I wrote him back using the Warm showers site and attempted to explain myself. I am a responsible person and would never just book a spot and then do nothing. Communcation is key. Haven't heard back from him yet!
I am having trouble uploading pictures to the iPhone so you'll have to wait for all the stuff I do. I will put them up in Gallery series so I can upload more faster. I am using the Bull Run Library where it is the first time I've had to pay to use a computer! Maybe it's Virginia?
After about a 1/2 hour there, one of the employees went outside and asked the lady to move. It really angered me because she wasn't bothering anyone and was passive about asking for money. It was also pouring rain outside. I couldn't imagine that she was doing this for fun on such a dismal day. I almost asked for the manager but choose instead to write a post to the Starbuck Facebook site. I'm not sure what it will do but I felt I had to do something. Instead of the rain tapering off, it just kept coming down. Hard. At 5;30, I texted that I intended to do the 5 km ride and set out. The amount of water coming down was so severe the storm drains couldn't handle it and I was peddling up small streams. I made it to the Lindens and was created by Tate the dad. He had me put my bike in the moving container and I got a shower and even laundry. I met Sarah, the mom, Teddy, the older brother, Truman, the youngest, and Tank, the Chocolate lab who was being housesat. I felt so good to get washed up and feel human again. They provided me with a local beer named, "Grateful". It was delicious. We talked about attitudes and politics and purpose of my trip. I'm finding that our neighbours are interested in perceptions of their government and their country. Tate said I would find a more pro-trump feeling the further south I got. Their two sons are in Spanish Immersion which was neat to talk about since I am in a French Immersion school. They told me that the rain was coming down in record amounts. So happy to be inside that night.
They fed me dinner and we talked more about he community. Lots of Hispanics and whites are in the minority. Their Dad had done a cross-country bike trip and they had done some supported touring in Europe and loved it. They don't have many people stay with them but I was grateful! WE settled in to watch , "Percy Jackson". I'm not familiar with this member of the Jackson 5 but I do like my music! :) The students at school are reading but I rarely read Children's Literature. I will say the movie was highly enjoyable and I will be eager to discuss this in September. Who would have thought the Greek Mythology would make such a comeback? I took a picture for the memories and said my goodnights. I had a great sleep in a comfortable bed and was surprised that I slept in until 6:30! I hurried my dry things together and grabbed a quick bite before heading out the door. I got to say goodbye to the family who was just waking up. I was happy to see blue skies and sunshine. I pulled out of there and headed to Manassas. I made a quick stop at the local store and grabbed some milk, donuts, and some fruit. The café in the store looked like a homeless shelter. I guess this is where the down and outs go on a Sunday morning. I fit right in! I took the train trail out of the city and competed with other joggers, cyclers, and walkers to make it to Vienna. I stopped there and just took a highway down to Manassas Battlefield park. No sign of rain yet but it was in the sky with greying clouds. I checked out the park, took part in a walking tour of the Henry House, and saw a demonstration of an artillery piece. Manassas is famous for being the first major battle of the conflict and is the spot where "Stonewall" Jackson was given his name. It was also a wake up call for both groups that the conflict would last. People came down from Washington to watch the battle and got caught up in the panicked Union retreat.
I'm going south of the city to stay with a Margaret Smith. It will be my second consecutive bed! What luck! the roads here aren't too cycle friendly but people are respectful of distance. I should also note that I got a really harsh email from a gentlemen up near Gettysburg. I had emailed him and thought I had contacted him to cancel but the messages must have gotten lost in problems I had with the WS website. He told me he'd made a dinner and would blacklist me from the site if he could have. I felt terrible. I wrote him back using the Warm showers site and attempted to explain myself. I am a responsible person and would never just book a spot and then do nothing. Communcation is key. Haven't heard back from him yet!
I am having trouble uploading pictures to the iPhone so you'll have to wait for all the stuff I do. I will put them up in Gallery series so I can upload more faster. I am using the Bull Run Library where it is the first time I've had to pay to use a computer! Maybe it's Virginia?
July 22/23- Here Comes the Rain Again
Rarely, do I ever, eat in places where the live bait selection is 15 feet from the grill but at Aden's Grocery, I felt I had no choice. Margaret had warned me that it was the only place to grab anything for the next stretch of road. The 7-11 I passed out first thing looked palatial compared to Aden's Grocery. I had a choice of chocolate bars, potatoe chips, and pop for my breakfast unless I wanted to go with a grilled item. Too fancy it seemed. I settled on an egg salad sandwich (they must have food safe here) pringles, an Arizona Ice Tea, and some resses peanut butter cups to round out the meal. I ate greedily.
My evening the night before at Margaret and Tom's place was cozy. She fed me a meal of pasta and for dessert, we had Norweigan Raisin bread or Hoolacaga as it is called in the old country. We talked about past trips, where I was going, and what route I should take next. She is a retired Horticulture teacher and she talked about a hard layer of soil called "Blackjack" that doesn't allow water to penetrate it. It was causing havoc the other night when the rain was coming down. She has several children that live or have lived in different parts of the world. Her one daughter, Abby, was home from Saudi Arabia on the summer break. Abby is a huge Paul Gross fan and even travelled to see a Christmas matinee in New York just to see him. Travel is fascinating sometimes! Margaret has travelled and biked extensively through a variety of countries. I met her husband Tom when he came home from church later on in the evening. The rain commenced again in the evening and it was nice to hear it on the roof while being inside! Less pleasant was waking up to thunder and lightening this morning and wondering how I was going to get myself out in the pouring rain. I had a small breakfast and chatted with Tom and Margaret. Before I knew it, the rain had stopped. Just in case, Margaret provided me with a shiny, black, new banjo case. I'm showing the style now! I've had a good ride with the only exception being the narrow and busy country roads here but people have been careful. I have noticed a particular trait where houses on one side are beautiful but on the other side of the street, they are a little more run down. Still, I've driven through some affluent areas and gated communities. About 15 km from Fredericksburg, I saw a sign for a library and decided to take a break. It's spacious and the computers are free. The sun is even coming out so my fears of a wet, rainy ride were for naught. I did manage to line up a spot to stay with Allison in Spotsylvania, near Fredericksburg. They have never hosted before. I need to be on my best behaviour!!
My evening the night before at Margaret and Tom's place was cozy. She fed me a meal of pasta and for dessert, we had Norweigan Raisin bread or Hoolacaga as it is called in the old country. We talked about past trips, where I was going, and what route I should take next. She is a retired Horticulture teacher and she talked about a hard layer of soil called "Blackjack" that doesn't allow water to penetrate it. It was causing havoc the other night when the rain was coming down. She has several children that live or have lived in different parts of the world. Her one daughter, Abby, was home from Saudi Arabia on the summer break. Abby is a huge Paul Gross fan and even travelled to see a Christmas matinee in New York just to see him. Travel is fascinating sometimes! Margaret has travelled and biked extensively through a variety of countries. I met her husband Tom when he came home from church later on in the evening. The rain commenced again in the evening and it was nice to hear it on the roof while being inside! Less pleasant was waking up to thunder and lightening this morning and wondering how I was going to get myself out in the pouring rain. I had a small breakfast and chatted with Tom and Margaret. Before I knew it, the rain had stopped. Just in case, Margaret provided me with a shiny, black, new banjo case. I'm showing the style now! I've had a good ride with the only exception being the narrow and busy country roads here but people have been careful. I have noticed a particular trait where houses on one side are beautiful but on the other side of the street, they are a little more run down. Still, I've driven through some affluent areas and gated communities. About 15 km from Fredericksburg, I saw a sign for a library and decided to take a break. It's spacious and the computers are free. The sun is even coming out so my fears of a wet, rainy ride were for naught. I did manage to line up a spot to stay with Allison in Spotsylvania, near Fredericksburg. They have never hosted before. I need to be on my best behaviour!!
July 23/24- The Mason Dixon Line
Now that I'm in Virginia, I'm below the Mason Dixon Line and technically in the land of cotton so I decided to treat myself to a Cotton Candy Blizzard! Just as tasty as the ones up north! The server, a young gentleman, was amazed that I had come from Toronto! I went into the downtown and found it to be a arsty-touristy type town. I checked out a bike shop and am getting close to buying waterproof panniers that will stay on and hold lots. The small one I have now is hanging on with the aid of bungee chords. I found a shop that actually made me a postcard with a frog design on it. I needed it for a friend's birthday. The proprietor just did this in the back of her shop and only charged me $2. I needed something better than the civil war stuff that's around. I took a butternut squash mango smoothie at a hipster cafe called Hyperion. It seems the place to go for young college types. By the time, 5 pm rolled around, I need to make my way to Allison's to meet them. The route I took gave me lots of highways! Cycling is not so much a priority and the shoulders were narrow to non-existent. Still, I made it on time without incident.
I found Allison, John, Jack the dog, and Abby the dog to be wonderful hosts! They generously prepared a dinner for me and we had a great conversation about DC commuting life, travel, and civil war ghosts! John's dad has a house inhabited by friendly spirits they think! They've never hosted before but their bathroom and bedroom was like a first class hotel! They let me do laundry and we finished off the night with chocolate chip cookies and milk. They are going on their own tour for 6 months next year and plan on hitting lots of countries. They've already experienced Quebec so I told them they also needed to go to Jasper-Banff as well. They are letting me stay for 2 nights so I have a chance to see the 4 battlefields around here. There was also talk of taking in some live music as well as some drink. Wonderful, wonderful, hosts! Meeting people and hearing their stories has been a real treat.
I awoke again to the sound of hard rain. This is not what I want to hear. However, after a quick bite, I gathered up my stuff and found the rain had stopped. Yippee! I battled the traffic back to Fredericksburg and got a good look at the site as well as the musuem. What's noteable about this place, is the union troops building bridges across the water under fire and then attacking numerous times against the Confederates hiding behind a stone wall. This sunken lane was an easily defendable position. The park ranger who gave the tour went into exhaustive detail about it. A little long for me. I'm planning on taking the trolley tour for the chance to sit down but still see some stuff. This town also has links to George Washington as well.
I found Allison, John, Jack the dog, and Abby the dog to be wonderful hosts! They generously prepared a dinner for me and we had a great conversation about DC commuting life, travel, and civil war ghosts! John's dad has a house inhabited by friendly spirits they think! They've never hosted before but their bathroom and bedroom was like a first class hotel! They let me do laundry and we finished off the night with chocolate chip cookies and milk. They are going on their own tour for 6 months next year and plan on hitting lots of countries. They've already experienced Quebec so I told them they also needed to go to Jasper-Banff as well. They are letting me stay for 2 nights so I have a chance to see the 4 battlefields around here. There was also talk of taking in some live music as well as some drink. Wonderful, wonderful, hosts! Meeting people and hearing their stories has been a real treat.
I awoke again to the sound of hard rain. This is not what I want to hear. However, after a quick bite, I gathered up my stuff and found the rain had stopped. Yippee! I battled the traffic back to Fredericksburg and got a good look at the site as well as the musuem. What's noteable about this place, is the union troops building bridges across the water under fire and then attacking numerous times against the Confederates hiding behind a stone wall. This sunken lane was an easily defendable position. The park ranger who gave the tour went into exhaustive detail about it. A little long for me. I'm planning on taking the trolley tour for the chance to sit down but still see some stuff. This town also has links to George Washington as well.
July 24-26 Clean beds and Showers
I got a snakebite! The worst thing is I even asked for it. I was following the order of my host John at the Irish Brigade Pub where we had gone to listen to some Bluegrass. The 'Snakebite" was a 1/2 cider, 1/2 Guiness drink that wasn't bad. I had a Devil's something brew for the chaser. I was originally going to get just french fries but the waitress upsold me to "Irish Nachos". Same concept but with chips. John likes his spice so he had a Jalepeno cut pepper and I followed suit. The thing nearly burned my throat out. John didn't do well with it either but kept it together with just a bit of tears and sniffles. Allsion and John have been wonderfully kind hosts. I've enjoyed getting to meet them and hearing their world views and their plans for travel abroad. Their dogs are also sweet. As we talked politics, we listened to the duo. One guy had a guitar and the other a mando. They were both skilled. Allison remarked that it was hard to look cool and play mando. I laughed! She said it seemed like you had to have tiny dinosaur hands to play which brought the image of those dinosaur suits and a guy playing mando! I'm not sure how we got to talking about it but on the subject of 40 Oz Colt 45 beer, John stated, "I guess you're either a person who drinks 40 oz bottles or a person who doesn't". Wise words indeed. To top off a great night of micro-brewery and music, Allison and John took me to Carl's which has a great reputation for frozen custard. It's a small, old-tyme stand where the servers wear paper hats for the '50's. The place was crowded for a late Tuesday night and had about 4 choices for orders. I got a strawberry-vanilla swirl. It was astounding! I'd taken a trolley tour earlier in the day and the lady behind had stated that "it was like Dairy Queen". It was not! It was great!
To get off my bike, I took a trolley tour of Fredericksburg and found it to be entertaining. I grabbed a slice of pizza from Benny's. Massive slice and ran and caught the trolley. The driver was good enough to let me eat on the trolley. I set up my bike and placed my laundry all over it so that it might dry out! I'm becoming comfortable with looking homeless. George Washington spent many years here so there's many connections. James Madison also lived in Fredericksburg. The houses are old and beautiful and it seems to be a thing to leave cannonballs embedded in the walls of property. The town itself was scene to bombardment and street fighting during the Civil War. On a second passing of the starting point, I found that my biking shorts had moved to the sidewalk. There was no way the wind blew them there so I felt bad that someone had decided to throw them on the sidewalk! Even homeless transients have standards! When we got back though, someone had returned the biking pants to my bike seat. I was so happy! I celebrated by having a tune salad sandwich (with chips and a pickle) and a caramel shake from Goolricks, an old, old pharmacy that has a lunch counter. African Americans took over the cafe one summer in the '60's and demanded to be served. It didn't take long for that to happen and other businesses followed suit.
I took in some Civil War stuff and a tour by an enthusiastic but long-winded tour guide. He gave a detailed lecture on all facets of the war but the take aways were the Federal troops sending wave after wave of troops against Confederates safely hidden away behind a stone wall. It went on for hours for little purpose. Some of the houses still have walls filled with bullet holes.
After a full day, I rode back to John and Allison's place and stopped in at a Starbucks. A gentleman pushing a cart came in just before me and got a water and tried to charge his phone, I sat close to him and he talked to me for a bit. I couldn't catch all that he was saying but his main problem seemed to be the lack of space on the highway for pedestrians (and Bikers!). Some people had phoned the police and they had told him to walk into traffic! It was sad. This guy's phone didn't seem to me charging and he still had a long way to go. I didn't get invested in his stuff since I'm not too many degrees separated from him but I could at least listen and commiserate a bit. I got up and wished him well on the next part of his tour. It's one thing for me to play hobo for 2 months but another thing entirely, to live that life.
Because John and Allison were nice enough to let me stay a 3rd night, I went around to all the other sites within the Spotsylvania area. I checked out Chancellorsville where Stonewall Jackson got shot by his own men. A little futher west was "The Wilderness"- a battle fought in scrub where General Lee attempted to lead charges but his men would not allow it. Finally, I went to Spotsylvania-another terrible battle in the shape of a horseshoe. The Park Service does a great job of providing self-guided tours but I find many of the guides are quite serious.
My last night with the Allison's was subdued but they provided a little pizza and some advice on roads to take down south. They've been so generous of their time and space that this will be a highlight of the tour. I've really enjoyed meeting them.
I got early and packed my bags! I had to say goodbye to some old friends. I broke down and bought waterproof panniers that shouldn't go flying off my bike. This means I need to leave my others behind. I put them by the air station at Sheetz in hopes they might find a second home. The new ones are different but secure. Less spacious and less pockets but they will stay dry. That is good. After google led me to a locked dirt path, I regrouped and then had a nice straight shot down number 2. Number two was better than its namesake. It was smooth, straight, and had calm traffic. I'm not sure my biking shorts were given high marks at the gas station/corner store but I was able to load up on liquids. The counter staff ladies shared a look when I walked in. I made good time down to Richmond and stopped 60 km when a library materialized off the highway. Another 40 km to go but I have 6 hours to do that. I can break in Richmond for a long rest before I meet my host Katie tonight.
I
To get off my bike, I took a trolley tour of Fredericksburg and found it to be entertaining. I grabbed a slice of pizza from Benny's. Massive slice and ran and caught the trolley. The driver was good enough to let me eat on the trolley. I set up my bike and placed my laundry all over it so that it might dry out! I'm becoming comfortable with looking homeless. George Washington spent many years here so there's many connections. James Madison also lived in Fredericksburg. The houses are old and beautiful and it seems to be a thing to leave cannonballs embedded in the walls of property. The town itself was scene to bombardment and street fighting during the Civil War. On a second passing of the starting point, I found that my biking shorts had moved to the sidewalk. There was no way the wind blew them there so I felt bad that someone had decided to throw them on the sidewalk! Even homeless transients have standards! When we got back though, someone had returned the biking pants to my bike seat. I was so happy! I celebrated by having a tune salad sandwich (with chips and a pickle) and a caramel shake from Goolricks, an old, old pharmacy that has a lunch counter. African Americans took over the cafe one summer in the '60's and demanded to be served. It didn't take long for that to happen and other businesses followed suit.
I took in some Civil War stuff and a tour by an enthusiastic but long-winded tour guide. He gave a detailed lecture on all facets of the war but the take aways were the Federal troops sending wave after wave of troops against Confederates safely hidden away behind a stone wall. It went on for hours for little purpose. Some of the houses still have walls filled with bullet holes.
After a full day, I rode back to John and Allison's place and stopped in at a Starbucks. A gentleman pushing a cart came in just before me and got a water and tried to charge his phone, I sat close to him and he talked to me for a bit. I couldn't catch all that he was saying but his main problem seemed to be the lack of space on the highway for pedestrians (and Bikers!). Some people had phoned the police and they had told him to walk into traffic! It was sad. This guy's phone didn't seem to me charging and he still had a long way to go. I didn't get invested in his stuff since I'm not too many degrees separated from him but I could at least listen and commiserate a bit. I got up and wished him well on the next part of his tour. It's one thing for me to play hobo for 2 months but another thing entirely, to live that life.
Because John and Allison were nice enough to let me stay a 3rd night, I went around to all the other sites within the Spotsylvania area. I checked out Chancellorsville where Stonewall Jackson got shot by his own men. A little futher west was "The Wilderness"- a battle fought in scrub where General Lee attempted to lead charges but his men would not allow it. Finally, I went to Spotsylvania-another terrible battle in the shape of a horseshoe. The Park Service does a great job of providing self-guided tours but I find many of the guides are quite serious.
My last night with the Allison's was subdued but they provided a little pizza and some advice on roads to take down south. They've been so generous of their time and space that this will be a highlight of the tour. I've really enjoyed meeting them.
I got early and packed my bags! I had to say goodbye to some old friends. I broke down and bought waterproof panniers that shouldn't go flying off my bike. This means I need to leave my others behind. I put them by the air station at Sheetz in hopes they might find a second home. The new ones are different but secure. Less spacious and less pockets but they will stay dry. That is good. After google led me to a locked dirt path, I regrouped and then had a nice straight shot down number 2. Number two was better than its namesake. It was smooth, straight, and had calm traffic. I'm not sure my biking shorts were given high marks at the gas station/corner store but I was able to load up on liquids. The counter staff ladies shared a look when I walked in. I made good time down to Richmond and stopped 60 km when a library materialized off the highway. Another 40 km to go but I have 6 hours to do that. I can break in Richmond for a long rest before I meet my host Katie tonight.
I
July 26-28th Richmond, Virginia
Richmond is a sleepy city but has a calm feel to it. I was in Richmond before I realized I was "in" Richmond. It does not have a big city feel to it. Streets are calm and traffic is light. I hung out at a Starbucks enjoying the air conditioning and finished off my book, "A Man called Ove". Great story. I shuffled over to Katie's but on the way there, stopped to have some pizza. Slices are pricey here and the bail bonds ads on the side give you the impression of the kind of client you get there but the pizza was good. They also serve beer at these places. Katie lived in some pretty single story housing not too far out from the city. She is a hydrologist who has done lots of cycling and enjoys travelling. It was interesting to hear her talk about the water and geological systems in the area. She was also good about providing feedback on the trails in the area and what I should eat and do. I'm on the hunt for a crabcake in Williamsburg I think. We shared some orange swirl ice cream I bought but I couldn't stay up to meet her boyfriend. What was really interesting about Katie was the picture of three confederate prisoners taken after the Battle of Gettysburg. It's an iconic picture I've seen many times but they are actually Katie's direct decendants. Her family didn't find out until about 30 years ago.
I left Katie's early and made my way downtown and was blown away by the canals and walkways. It is so pretty. There are even the remenants of the bridges that were destroyed by the escaping confederates when Richmond fell to the Federals. The trails just go on forever around here. I took in the Civil War museum but found it pricey and not exactly informative. The Tredegar Foundry was a bit more interesting and free! The brick buildings here are beautiful. I headed up to the Confederate Museum which seemed to have endless battle flags. The south likes it flags it seems. The tour of the Jeff Davis house was also interesting. It's restored but still gives you an idea of what it was like. Oppulent but smaller. Lincoln stopped in soon after Davis ran away. This museum was a little expensive as well.
I choose to hang out at a coffee shop down from Starbucks before heading to Archie and Natalie's. They put me up for the night and we talked cats, cycling, and grits. They have a beautiful balcony off their apartment and we chatted and drank while cursing the PRB (pub) patrons who were getting noisy playing their outdoor game of Bocci Ball. Lots of drunk conversations in the alley could be heard as well. Natalie is a vet assistant and Archie works for the power company. I got versed in more grit lore. People light up when they talk about grits around here! I am seeing that Shrimp and Grits is something I have to get but Archie talked about Savory Grit, Sweet Grits, and even grits that have gone cold, then get put into cakes, and are refried. NOt sure when I'll get to those but I am do for some grits soon I think. They enjoy the area and do not miss the humidity of Florida. I felt bad because I was so tired and I ended up going to bed early but they were good about it and let me sleep. I got to sleep in an enormous bean bag thing which was heavenly! In the morning, I got a wake up from the kitties. Kitties are so nice!
I crept out early after having some deliciously thick and cool chocolate milk. I made my way through the beautifully quiet city streets lined with old, narrow houses. I met a pack of joggers numbering in the 100's. It wasn't an event but it must have been a group of some sort. On the way to the grocery store, I stopped at a light and a younger man on a bike was going to cross. Instead, he struck up a conversation with me about what kind of trip I was on. He talked about how his bike was worth about a $1000 but his friend got mad at him the other night and did some damage to it. I'm surprised how easily people start talking here. The lights changed a few times before I excuse myself and went shopping. At Kohler's grocery, I saw a Krispy Kreme Donut truck. I asked the bakery assistant whether the donuts in the bakery were KK bu they weren't. They trucked in the door and did the baking and icing on site. When she heard I was from out of town, she told me to go down to the Sugar Shack Donuts and Coffee for an Apple Fritter. I picked up a quart of chocolate milk in a glass container and had to wait in line to recycle the glass when I was done. I made it over to the famed donut shop and was impressed by the simple store. No place to sit down and about 7 kinds of donuts and coffee to choose from. I told the owner that I was told his donuts were the best in Richmond. He replied that they were the best in the world but a myopic view would permit that they were indeed the best in Richmond. I went with a monster fritter ($3) and stuck it on the back of my bike while I cruised down memorial avenue. It's a wide expansive boulevard which has statues of the south's heros. The General Lee statue is massive but there is also one of tennis start, Arthur Ash. The houses lining this way are narrow but spectacular. A pretty neighbourhood.
At the library, I stopped to ask a gentleman if there was a 7-11 nearby and he took out his phone and looked for about 2 minutes before giving me directions. I'm constantly blown away by how generous people are with their kindness here. It was near the State capitol so I walked around the grounds a bit. I think because it is a government town, everyone stays home on the weekend and it is really quiet. Good for me because I am on a bike. I managed to get a card at the library and will relax here for a bit before heading out to Cold Harbour battlesite. Katie has generously allowed me to use her backyard for camping so I don't have to hide out in a city park. She's nice and close to the city so she's well situated. Considering sticking around for some Bluegrass tomorrow night and then a run down to Williamsburg on the trails. Really enjoying my Richmond visit!
I left Katie's early and made my way downtown and was blown away by the canals and walkways. It is so pretty. There are even the remenants of the bridges that were destroyed by the escaping confederates when Richmond fell to the Federals. The trails just go on forever around here. I took in the Civil War museum but found it pricey and not exactly informative. The Tredegar Foundry was a bit more interesting and free! The brick buildings here are beautiful. I headed up to the Confederate Museum which seemed to have endless battle flags. The south likes it flags it seems. The tour of the Jeff Davis house was also interesting. It's restored but still gives you an idea of what it was like. Oppulent but smaller. Lincoln stopped in soon after Davis ran away. This museum was a little expensive as well.
I choose to hang out at a coffee shop down from Starbucks before heading to Archie and Natalie's. They put me up for the night and we talked cats, cycling, and grits. They have a beautiful balcony off their apartment and we chatted and drank while cursing the PRB (pub) patrons who were getting noisy playing their outdoor game of Bocci Ball. Lots of drunk conversations in the alley could be heard as well. Natalie is a vet assistant and Archie works for the power company. I got versed in more grit lore. People light up when they talk about grits around here! I am seeing that Shrimp and Grits is something I have to get but Archie talked about Savory Grit, Sweet Grits, and even grits that have gone cold, then get put into cakes, and are refried. NOt sure when I'll get to those but I am do for some grits soon I think. They enjoy the area and do not miss the humidity of Florida. I felt bad because I was so tired and I ended up going to bed early but they were good about it and let me sleep. I got to sleep in an enormous bean bag thing which was heavenly! In the morning, I got a wake up from the kitties. Kitties are so nice!
I crept out early after having some deliciously thick and cool chocolate milk. I made my way through the beautifully quiet city streets lined with old, narrow houses. I met a pack of joggers numbering in the 100's. It wasn't an event but it must have been a group of some sort. On the way to the grocery store, I stopped at a light and a younger man on a bike was going to cross. Instead, he struck up a conversation with me about what kind of trip I was on. He talked about how his bike was worth about a $1000 but his friend got mad at him the other night and did some damage to it. I'm surprised how easily people start talking here. The lights changed a few times before I excuse myself and went shopping. At Kohler's grocery, I saw a Krispy Kreme Donut truck. I asked the bakery assistant whether the donuts in the bakery were KK bu they weren't. They trucked in the door and did the baking and icing on site. When she heard I was from out of town, she told me to go down to the Sugar Shack Donuts and Coffee for an Apple Fritter. I picked up a quart of chocolate milk in a glass container and had to wait in line to recycle the glass when I was done. I made it over to the famed donut shop and was impressed by the simple store. No place to sit down and about 7 kinds of donuts and coffee to choose from. I told the owner that I was told his donuts were the best in Richmond. He replied that they were the best in the world but a myopic view would permit that they were indeed the best in Richmond. I went with a monster fritter ($3) and stuck it on the back of my bike while I cruised down memorial avenue. It's a wide expansive boulevard which has statues of the south's heros. The General Lee statue is massive but there is also one of tennis start, Arthur Ash. The houses lining this way are narrow but spectacular. A pretty neighbourhood.
At the library, I stopped to ask a gentleman if there was a 7-11 nearby and he took out his phone and looked for about 2 minutes before giving me directions. I'm constantly blown away by how generous people are with their kindness here. It was near the State capitol so I walked around the grounds a bit. I think because it is a government town, everyone stays home on the weekend and it is really quiet. Good for me because I am on a bike. I managed to get a card at the library and will relax here for a bit before heading out to Cold Harbour battlesite. Katie has generously allowed me to use her backyard for camping so I don't have to hide out in a city park. She's nice and close to the city so she's well situated. Considering sticking around for some Bluegrass tomorrow night and then a run down to Williamsburg on the trails. Really enjoying my Richmond visit!
July 29th- Kiss my Grits!
I finally got my grits! I made it out to the battlefields of Cold Harbour and my guide had a great lecturing style about him even though he was young. I made it back to Katie's house and set up camp. I introduced myself to the next door neighbor Randy who was quite surprised to hear I was camping and cycling. He thought I was fixing the air conditioner. Nice enough guy! The rain didn't fall that night so I was treated to a full moon through the tent screen, I went to Chimborazo Medical Museum in the morning and was impressed with the personal stories of the largest medical facility the confederates had during the war.
I headed over to Belle Ilse which is a park with island trails. I set out my sleeping bag by the rocks and read while listening to the rushing river. There were many kayakers and swimmers around. It is quite the Sunday destination. When I got too hot, I retreated to the cool of the Farmer's Café until it was time to listen to Bluegrass at Legends.
Legends was in a less diverse part of town and it took a bit to get there. I was destroyed when they told me the music had been cancelled. I had been waiting around for 2 days just to go. I vowed to salvage the day and called Tin Pan to see if they still had tickets to Chatham County Line. They did and I biked the 20 km into the suburbs to get there. I made it just in time, changed, and ordered some Devil's Backbone Lager. The music was so good. I felt like I had upgraded from economy bluegrass to business class. The harmonies and musicianship was superb! I saw that there were grits on the menu so I took the plunge. It is a cross between rice and porridge. Mine had pieces of meat and maybe a gravy base with cheese too? The shrimp were in there as well. It was quite filling and delicious. Chatham County Line played for about 90 minutes and did a tune or two by Steve Earle and Tom Petty. The mandolin player was also an awesome fiddle player. It was getting dark too. I didn't really have too many lights but I did have a headlight so I strapped that on. It worked for the most part. I was worried it was going to rain but it held off until the early morning.
I waited out the rain and when it tapered off, I said goodbye to Katie's backyard. I stopped by the civil war cemetery briefly. I was surprised to see that the remains of 2 or 3 soldiers would be included in every grave. Sad. I caught the Virginia Capital trail and was expecting a pleasant ride by the river but it was really just a paved trail by the highway. Nice to have a dedicated lane but I was looking for a little more ambience. A library popped out of nowhere so I took a chance to rest (after 30 minutes of riding). The rain has started up again so I might try to wait it out again. Hopefully will make it into Williamsburg this evening. I could not find a host so I will looking for parks and crevices in the town. More luck further on down the road hopefully.
I have noticed that people say "catty-corner" instead of "kitty-corner" here. Neat. I should also mention the tag line, "kiss my grtis" is from Mel's diner. Flo, the texas waitress used this as her expletive.
I headed over to Belle Ilse which is a park with island trails. I set out my sleeping bag by the rocks and read while listening to the rushing river. There were many kayakers and swimmers around. It is quite the Sunday destination. When I got too hot, I retreated to the cool of the Farmer's Café until it was time to listen to Bluegrass at Legends.
Legends was in a less diverse part of town and it took a bit to get there. I was destroyed when they told me the music had been cancelled. I had been waiting around for 2 days just to go. I vowed to salvage the day and called Tin Pan to see if they still had tickets to Chatham County Line. They did and I biked the 20 km into the suburbs to get there. I made it just in time, changed, and ordered some Devil's Backbone Lager. The music was so good. I felt like I had upgraded from economy bluegrass to business class. The harmonies and musicianship was superb! I saw that there were grits on the menu so I took the plunge. It is a cross between rice and porridge. Mine had pieces of meat and maybe a gravy base with cheese too? The shrimp were in there as well. It was quite filling and delicious. Chatham County Line played for about 90 minutes and did a tune or two by Steve Earle and Tom Petty. The mandolin player was also an awesome fiddle player. It was getting dark too. I didn't really have too many lights but I did have a headlight so I strapped that on. It worked for the most part. I was worried it was going to rain but it held off until the early morning.
I waited out the rain and when it tapered off, I said goodbye to Katie's backyard. I stopped by the civil war cemetery briefly. I was surprised to see that the remains of 2 or 3 soldiers would be included in every grave. Sad. I caught the Virginia Capital trail and was expecting a pleasant ride by the river but it was really just a paved trail by the highway. Nice to have a dedicated lane but I was looking for a little more ambience. A library popped out of nowhere so I took a chance to rest (after 30 minutes of riding). The rain has started up again so I might try to wait it out again. Hopefully will make it into Williamsburg this evening. I could not find a host so I will looking for parks and crevices in the town. More luck further on down the road hopefully.
I have noticed that people say "catty-corner" instead of "kitty-corner" here. Neat. I should also mention the tag line, "kiss my grtis" is from Mel's diner. Flo, the texas waitress used this as her expletive.
August 1-Back in Prince George!
How odd to find myself back in Prince George. Prince George, Virginia that is! It has been a hot day of biking and I was amused to see the city on my way through to Petersburg. I am lucky enough to be staying with Adam's mom. Adam's not home now but his mom has generously stepped up to make sure I don't go homeless.
I've had a lazy few days. The Capital to Capital trail that everyone was raving about did not really excite me. It was nice to have a paved trail by the highway but I really thought that I was going to be going next to the river. The weather was on again, off again rain and I found that it just wore me down a bit. When I finished the trail, I thought I would be dropped right downtown but instead, it was a farmer's field about 10 km from town. Hard to get excited about that. So, to cheer myself, up, I got a motel and relaxed for a couple of days while the weather sorted itself out. Williamsburg used to be the historic capital and they have sectioned off a huge chunk of the town and left it preserved. It's sort of neat but I did not investigate too much. I did investigate a Pizza Hut Pizza which I had no trouble downing. One of the neatest things was going into the Peanut store. I thought I was going to get boiled peanuts but they had everything under the sun, plus samples! Too good! The flavour selection was great and while I really loved the honey almonds, I had to watch my budget and go with a smaller tin of honey roasted peanuts. I also got a grape Nehi in honour of Radar from MASH. It used to be his favourite drink.
By Day 2, I headed out and stopped in at Jamestown, one of the first English settlements in North America. They stuck those poor guys out there and the crops failed and the Natives got hostile. It seemed like tough days. The English eventually sent more people, subdued the natives, signed treaties with them, and then reneged on the treaties.
What was good about today was that it was warm and sunny. The Ferry ride from Jamestown to Scotland was also cool. Lots of interesting coastal birds! I'm going to check out Petersburg tomorrow and then decide on where to go next. Looks like North Carolina could be calling my name!
I've had a lazy few days. The Capital to Capital trail that everyone was raving about did not really excite me. It was nice to have a paved trail by the highway but I really thought that I was going to be going next to the river. The weather was on again, off again rain and I found that it just wore me down a bit. When I finished the trail, I thought I would be dropped right downtown but instead, it was a farmer's field about 10 km from town. Hard to get excited about that. So, to cheer myself, up, I got a motel and relaxed for a couple of days while the weather sorted itself out. Williamsburg used to be the historic capital and they have sectioned off a huge chunk of the town and left it preserved. It's sort of neat but I did not investigate too much. I did investigate a Pizza Hut Pizza which I had no trouble downing. One of the neatest things was going into the Peanut store. I thought I was going to get boiled peanuts but they had everything under the sun, plus samples! Too good! The flavour selection was great and while I really loved the honey almonds, I had to watch my budget and go with a smaller tin of honey roasted peanuts. I also got a grape Nehi in honour of Radar from MASH. It used to be his favourite drink.
By Day 2, I headed out and stopped in at Jamestown, one of the first English settlements in North America. They stuck those poor guys out there and the crops failed and the Natives got hostile. It seemed like tough days. The English eventually sent more people, subdued the natives, signed treaties with them, and then reneged on the treaties.
What was good about today was that it was warm and sunny. The Ferry ride from Jamestown to Scotland was also cool. Lots of interesting coastal birds! I'm going to check out Petersburg tomorrow and then decide on where to go next. Looks like North Carolina could be calling my name!
August 2nd-6th Heading West
I better understand how Lee and his troops must have felt heading west through sun and rain. How I long for Mama's biscuits and cool, sweet tea. I've been busy moving west and dealing with bike rack issues. I had a fantastic in Petersburg exploring the Crater site made famous by the "Cold Mountain" movie. The park was empty and I had sun! That was great. No one was at the park and they were more bike friendly at this one so I was able to go on some forest trails which was nice due to the shade. For the afternoon, I retreated to the library but didn't use a computer. I wanted to read instead. As I read, a security guard came up to me and I thought he was going to give me the dickens for having my shoes off but instead, he told me that I looked like the tech from Mission Impossible too and he wanted my autograph! We talked and laughed for about 5 minutes before he went on his way. As it has been, it started pouring in the afternoon. My shirt and pants that I left outside to dry got washed instead! :)
The Bechtolds of Peterburg are an interesting bunch. They live in a beautiful character home with tall ceilings and wide entrance ways. The mom (Angie) and Bill (dad) originally hail from New York. Angie has a strong accent. They have Adam, Alex, and Molly as children as well as Candace, Alex's fiancé. This family loves pets and things Chinese. Most do Kung Fu and Alex runs a kung fu school. It keeps him busy. They've even made movies in the local park that look good. Bill and Alex also do motorcycle tours and I was surprised how much e have in common. We get sore, hot, don't like the rain, etc. I shouldn't have been so hard on the Gettysburg Harley guys...wait a minute...they were obnoxious! I'm sure Bill and Alex are good eggs! :) Molly is going to ballerina school and Angie runs a needlepoint business that has the head office in England. The dogs are adorable and the new kitty Copper, screams instead of meowing. I guess being a cat is harder than it looks! The nice thing about this stay was that there were multiple guitars as well as a fiddle! I played it on the second day and it was one of the nicest fiddles I've ever played. It had a beautiful tone and was effortless to play. I did "Ashokan Farewell, Gentlemen from Virginia, and Campfire on the fourth of July". Really nice to play such a beautiful instrument. Bill is going to start taking lessons soon. Best of luck. I crept out early in the morning and scared the outside cat getting my stuff together. Sorry amigo.
I peddled off for Appomattox but the rain kicked in mid-morning and I began to lose power. I did stop at Five Forks which was one of the last bigger battles of the war. I chatted brie It was a lot of highway riding too which is also soul sucking. I pulled off into a diner, downed my Arizona sweet teas and contemplated the future. It wasn't raining too hard but I was getting wet and didn't have much more in me. I checked out Blackstone and since it had a McDonalds, set my sights on that. I made it in and saw several spots with privacy and overhangs. On the off chance that I could grab a spot, I sent away 3 messages to couchsurfing people. To my shock, I got a response from John Gagat who had forgotten he was even on the site. Most of the people on there hadn't checked in for years. So, I lounged and enjoyed my crispy chicken sandwich as well as multiple drinks while watching "Cold Mountain". I think I relate to the story because he is on a trek and it's tough. I mean, sometimes, I can't even find a store for minutes at a time. So, I got over to John's but on the way there, got distracted by the mailboxes and ended up in the ditch. No one was hurt but I had to call John because the numbers got too high and I couldn't find his place. He sorted me out by saying people out in the country don't pay to numeracy and that his place 419 came logically AFTER 629. I made it and was greeted by the Montana the young German Shepard and Molly, the shorter labtype dog. John was a retired accountant who farms now. He set me up in his RV which even had air conditioning. Sweet digs! He told me that he was surprised that anyone asked to stay in Blackstone and I was surprised that anyone answered. He had taken a trip across America in a car and couchsurfed. John also played guitar and thought it might be good to have some company since his wife was working and his two boys were out. He is from Richmond and said that Petersburg lost people when the Browning Tobacco company moved out of there. I had noticed lots of boarded up houses in Petersburg. John and I played a few tunes and shared some brews. Considering that I thought I would be wet and sleeping at the museum, the night turned out excellently.
I awoke early and headed out to Appomattox. No clouds in the sky. However, I had discovered that my seat cover was missing. I had left it in Blackstone. Boo. I did catch the High River trail which was fun. A nice gravel trail with no cars to worry about. Farmville was a university town and I stopped to resupply. I forgot to buy a seat cover from the bike store right off the trail. Forgive me bottom! But it was getting hot. I'm not a fan of the rain but the heat also slows me down. I did make it into Appomattox and was dismayed that I could see the arches but the building was not there. Sadness. Subway would have to fill the void. A gentlemen who looked like the rapper DMX made my sub and laughed when I asked for the free napkin. On the sign out front, it said, "Free napkin with every sub!" My kind of humour. I choose a spot behind a school but the air conditioner was quite loud so it was not exactly a restful sleep!
I went to Walmart which secretly killed my soul but did enjoy the cold drinks and fruit I bought. I have been getting overly familiar with Pringles chips and donuts these days. I went to Appomattox where General Lee surrendered to General Grant. It was a large area with lots of restored buildings. I couldn't help but be envious of the slave quarter's beds. Even the jail was looking promising and I was tempted to grab a little shuteye since it was quiet. But I had a host for Lynchburg so I needed to move. While I was there, I learned that the modern day banjo was created in Appomattox by Joe Sweeny. The park ranger coming to tell me to get off my bike on the trails saw I had a banjo and told me this. I talked to a few characters in person and was surprised to hear about "darky" songs. I guess they're in character but it made me uncomfortable nonetheless. It was at this point that I felt my back end sway. A supporting rod had given way and it was on its last legs. The trip to Danville was long and rural so I made a decision to head to Lynchburg to get fixed. The heat was tough but I did the 30 km in a reasonable amount of time. The only route is on the highway apparently. Not too much fun. It also routed me right past the waste treatment plant. Smelly. And then the trainyards. The good news was it took me right past the bike shop and I had Kaitlyn and Van took good care of me and my bike. He was really impressed that I was coming from Toronto and that I'd been across Canada. He had done races in South Africa. He didn't have a bike rack but he did jury rig my bike with an adjusted screw and some tie-ons. It's crude but it set me up for the next three weeks. There's been talk about me actually making it to Nashville on time. Will I or won't I?
I had a huge fight with McDonald's so I ended up going to Burger King. The McDonald's had a sign that said, "30 minutes max" and had no power outlets! My life is power and Wi-Fi. I found Burger King was relaxed and waited out my time in there.
Greg Bentz lived in a nice house with a steep driveway. He welcomed me into his large house and showed me a bed that looked like it was created by the Gods. Wide, warm, and fluffy. He had just hosted cyclists the night before so he threw me a towel and I became a human again. I was pleased to hear he had 7 dogs but they were kept secured so as not to overwhelm me. He was a computer engineer who had lived in Columbia and him and his wife had just moved back. We had a good conversation about family as well. Greg is also a landlord and told me story after story of tenants who destroyed houses or didn't pay him. Still, he was not bitter. A good lesson for me. It would have eaten me up I think. We let the dogs out and they ran around. Seven dogs is a lot. He's grabbed them here or there but they are well treated and happy. He even has a renter who stays to look after them. He was kind enough to give me a load of laundry but I forgot to wash a shirt. Looks like it is natural air drying for that one. I had such a good sleep. Really comfy bed. I moved onto Danville today but am not getting any responses. All my couchsurfing contacts are saying no as well. Danville is also 120 km away so I woke up early to get a good haul at the distance. I've made good time and am now hanging out in Gerta, Va. I've got 40 km to go but it's also 90 degrees out there. Could be a lonely night! I'm moments from crossing over a border so that should be exciting too!
Fan mail! Doug Borden of Prince George, BC writes, "hey. No contact lately. What is the deal? When you return you need to explain "The Night they Drove Old Dixie Down"
Thanks for the note Doug. Libraries shut down early on Friday, aren't open on Saturday or Sunday in this neck of the woods. I am actually heading to Danville now "Virgil Cane is my name and I served on the Danville Train..." See you soon! First back to school ad today. Yuck!
The Bechtolds of Peterburg are an interesting bunch. They live in a beautiful character home with tall ceilings and wide entrance ways. The mom (Angie) and Bill (dad) originally hail from New York. Angie has a strong accent. They have Adam, Alex, and Molly as children as well as Candace, Alex's fiancé. This family loves pets and things Chinese. Most do Kung Fu and Alex runs a kung fu school. It keeps him busy. They've even made movies in the local park that look good. Bill and Alex also do motorcycle tours and I was surprised how much e have in common. We get sore, hot, don't like the rain, etc. I shouldn't have been so hard on the Gettysburg Harley guys...wait a minute...they were obnoxious! I'm sure Bill and Alex are good eggs! :) Molly is going to ballerina school and Angie runs a needlepoint business that has the head office in England. The dogs are adorable and the new kitty Copper, screams instead of meowing. I guess being a cat is harder than it looks! The nice thing about this stay was that there were multiple guitars as well as a fiddle! I played it on the second day and it was one of the nicest fiddles I've ever played. It had a beautiful tone and was effortless to play. I did "Ashokan Farewell, Gentlemen from Virginia, and Campfire on the fourth of July". Really nice to play such a beautiful instrument. Bill is going to start taking lessons soon. Best of luck. I crept out early in the morning and scared the outside cat getting my stuff together. Sorry amigo.
I peddled off for Appomattox but the rain kicked in mid-morning and I began to lose power. I did stop at Five Forks which was one of the last bigger battles of the war. I chatted brie It was a lot of highway riding too which is also soul sucking. I pulled off into a diner, downed my Arizona sweet teas and contemplated the future. It wasn't raining too hard but I was getting wet and didn't have much more in me. I checked out Blackstone and since it had a McDonalds, set my sights on that. I made it in and saw several spots with privacy and overhangs. On the off chance that I could grab a spot, I sent away 3 messages to couchsurfing people. To my shock, I got a response from John Gagat who had forgotten he was even on the site. Most of the people on there hadn't checked in for years. So, I lounged and enjoyed my crispy chicken sandwich as well as multiple drinks while watching "Cold Mountain". I think I relate to the story because he is on a trek and it's tough. I mean, sometimes, I can't even find a store for minutes at a time. So, I got over to John's but on the way there, got distracted by the mailboxes and ended up in the ditch. No one was hurt but I had to call John because the numbers got too high and I couldn't find his place. He sorted me out by saying people out in the country don't pay to numeracy and that his place 419 came logically AFTER 629. I made it and was greeted by the Montana the young German Shepard and Molly, the shorter labtype dog. John was a retired accountant who farms now. He set me up in his RV which even had air conditioning. Sweet digs! He told me that he was surprised that anyone asked to stay in Blackstone and I was surprised that anyone answered. He had taken a trip across America in a car and couchsurfed. John also played guitar and thought it might be good to have some company since his wife was working and his two boys were out. He is from Richmond and said that Petersburg lost people when the Browning Tobacco company moved out of there. I had noticed lots of boarded up houses in Petersburg. John and I played a few tunes and shared some brews. Considering that I thought I would be wet and sleeping at the museum, the night turned out excellently.
I awoke early and headed out to Appomattox. No clouds in the sky. However, I had discovered that my seat cover was missing. I had left it in Blackstone. Boo. I did catch the High River trail which was fun. A nice gravel trail with no cars to worry about. Farmville was a university town and I stopped to resupply. I forgot to buy a seat cover from the bike store right off the trail. Forgive me bottom! But it was getting hot. I'm not a fan of the rain but the heat also slows me down. I did make it into Appomattox and was dismayed that I could see the arches but the building was not there. Sadness. Subway would have to fill the void. A gentlemen who looked like the rapper DMX made my sub and laughed when I asked for the free napkin. On the sign out front, it said, "Free napkin with every sub!" My kind of humour. I choose a spot behind a school but the air conditioner was quite loud so it was not exactly a restful sleep!
I went to Walmart which secretly killed my soul but did enjoy the cold drinks and fruit I bought. I have been getting overly familiar with Pringles chips and donuts these days. I went to Appomattox where General Lee surrendered to General Grant. It was a large area with lots of restored buildings. I couldn't help but be envious of the slave quarter's beds. Even the jail was looking promising and I was tempted to grab a little shuteye since it was quiet. But I had a host for Lynchburg so I needed to move. While I was there, I learned that the modern day banjo was created in Appomattox by Joe Sweeny. The park ranger coming to tell me to get off my bike on the trails saw I had a banjo and told me this. I talked to a few characters in person and was surprised to hear about "darky" songs. I guess they're in character but it made me uncomfortable nonetheless. It was at this point that I felt my back end sway. A supporting rod had given way and it was on its last legs. The trip to Danville was long and rural so I made a decision to head to Lynchburg to get fixed. The heat was tough but I did the 30 km in a reasonable amount of time. The only route is on the highway apparently. Not too much fun. It also routed me right past the waste treatment plant. Smelly. And then the trainyards. The good news was it took me right past the bike shop and I had Kaitlyn and Van took good care of me and my bike. He was really impressed that I was coming from Toronto and that I'd been across Canada. He had done races in South Africa. He didn't have a bike rack but he did jury rig my bike with an adjusted screw and some tie-ons. It's crude but it set me up for the next three weeks. There's been talk about me actually making it to Nashville on time. Will I or won't I?
I had a huge fight with McDonald's so I ended up going to Burger King. The McDonald's had a sign that said, "30 minutes max" and had no power outlets! My life is power and Wi-Fi. I found Burger King was relaxed and waited out my time in there.
Greg Bentz lived in a nice house with a steep driveway. He welcomed me into his large house and showed me a bed that looked like it was created by the Gods. Wide, warm, and fluffy. He had just hosted cyclists the night before so he threw me a towel and I became a human again. I was pleased to hear he had 7 dogs but they were kept secured so as not to overwhelm me. He was a computer engineer who had lived in Columbia and him and his wife had just moved back. We had a good conversation about family as well. Greg is also a landlord and told me story after story of tenants who destroyed houses or didn't pay him. Still, he was not bitter. A good lesson for me. It would have eaten me up I think. We let the dogs out and they ran around. Seven dogs is a lot. He's grabbed them here or there but they are well treated and happy. He even has a renter who stays to look after them. He was kind enough to give me a load of laundry but I forgot to wash a shirt. Looks like it is natural air drying for that one. I had such a good sleep. Really comfy bed. I moved onto Danville today but am not getting any responses. All my couchsurfing contacts are saying no as well. Danville is also 120 km away so I woke up early to get a good haul at the distance. I've made good time and am now hanging out in Gerta, Va. I've got 40 km to go but it's also 90 degrees out there. Could be a lonely night! I'm moments from crossing over a border so that should be exciting too!
Fan mail! Doug Borden of Prince George, BC writes, "hey. No contact lately. What is the deal? When you return you need to explain "The Night they Drove Old Dixie Down"
Thanks for the note Doug. Libraries shut down early on Friday, aren't open on Saturday or Sunday in this neck of the woods. I am actually heading to Danville now "Virgil Cane is my name and I served on the Danville Train..." See you soon! First back to school ad today. Yuck!
August 7th- Carolina Here I Come!
Broke through the North Carolinian border early this morning. I had a restful sleep in the Ballou park. Other than the trains coming through once, it was peaceful with the ciccadas chirping softly. Coming in yesterday was tiring, I left 50 km for the last chunk and it was a big chunk. The advantage was that it was cool and traffic was calm. This morning, I had a quick conversation with a man who asked me where I was coming from. When he heard Toronto, he just started laughing. I'm sure people think I'm insane or something. Troubled at the best perhaps. At the end of our conversation, he just walked away, shaking his head and saying, "Toronto to Nashvile, Toronto to Nashville".
It's sunny but it sure warms up quick. Just as I crossed the border, I saw another one of those black snakes. It was lying just a bit on the shoulder but not moving. I wonder if they eat and then can't move. They are long! The area seems to be covered with these plants that have 3 leaves, I'm wondering if its Poison Ivy! If so, the scope of it is terrifying. It's in massive patches that covers entire trees!
I had a odd occurrence today. I saw a dead kitty by the road and then saw a truck pull out of a house about 100 metres up. When I passed that house, I saw a similar orange looking kitty by the porch. I stopped. About 200 metres up the road, the truck stopped. I waved hoping they would come back but they just stayed there stopped in the middle of the road. I got on my bike and peddled and then the truck turned around. I stopped by the road hoping the truck would stop but the lady just lifted a finger to say hello and kept driving. She got almost to her house and then turned around. I was hoping she was going to stop on my side of the road but she just kept going. Oh well, I suspect that she'll find the kitty tonight. The two cats just looked too similar.
I came across an old brick building and asked a man nearby what it was. He told me that it was a school and that it was there since he was born and he was 78! They closed it in '72 when they build three other schools in the area. It's big and has a certain industrial feel to it but it looks nice with the brick too.
The accent down here is getting thick. At the post office, the clerk was nice enough to get me a bottle of water! What service! We talked about the demise of postcards and how they are dying out.
I wasn't really getting anywhere so I decided to call a break in Reidsville. I hunkered down in the library and found out the plant could be kudzu which is invasive but she cautioned me on the poison ivy saying that North Carolina grew poison ivy! I researched the black snake and it is not poisonous but copperheads and water moccasins are. I'm up to date on what they look like.
I have a spot in Greensboro tonight so that is good!
It's sunny but it sure warms up quick. Just as I crossed the border, I saw another one of those black snakes. It was lying just a bit on the shoulder but not moving. I wonder if they eat and then can't move. They are long! The area seems to be covered with these plants that have 3 leaves, I'm wondering if its Poison Ivy! If so, the scope of it is terrifying. It's in massive patches that covers entire trees!
I had a odd occurrence today. I saw a dead kitty by the road and then saw a truck pull out of a house about 100 metres up. When I passed that house, I saw a similar orange looking kitty by the porch. I stopped. About 200 metres up the road, the truck stopped. I waved hoping they would come back but they just stayed there stopped in the middle of the road. I got on my bike and peddled and then the truck turned around. I stopped by the road hoping the truck would stop but the lady just lifted a finger to say hello and kept driving. She got almost to her house and then turned around. I was hoping she was going to stop on my side of the road but she just kept going. Oh well, I suspect that she'll find the kitty tonight. The two cats just looked too similar.
I came across an old brick building and asked a man nearby what it was. He told me that it was a school and that it was there since he was born and he was 78! They closed it in '72 when they build three other schools in the area. It's big and has a certain industrial feel to it but it looks nice with the brick too.
The accent down here is getting thick. At the post office, the clerk was nice enough to get me a bottle of water! What service! We talked about the demise of postcards and how they are dying out.
I wasn't really getting anywhere so I decided to call a break in Reidsville. I hunkered down in the library and found out the plant could be kudzu which is invasive but she cautioned me on the poison ivy saying that North Carolina grew poison ivy! I researched the black snake and it is not poisonous but copperheads and water moccasins are. I'm up to date on what they look like.
I have a spot in Greensboro tonight so that is good!
August 8th- Here Comes the Sun
After my break in Reidsville, I went back out into the furnace of the day and travelled along quiet sideroads without much event. I was surprised how hard it was to bike in 90 degree weather and resolved to head out early the next morning. My Greensboro host was James Brown. He has a spectacular house filled with art and statues. He's a manager for Volvo and has travelled extensively. He has more art in his bathroom than I do in my entire house. He's another transplanted southerner having come from Ohio originally. He mostly hosts couchsurfers but does a little warmshowers hosting too. I was grateful for the chance to reacquaint mysef with clean laundry and a proper bed. James was kind enough to supply me with a paper map and a gift bag of oranges and grapefruit in syrup. A delicious breakfast.
I hit the road early which was great but it took me a while to get out of Greensboro. More country roads with corn and tractors being a common sight. I stopped at a corner store and was surprised at the bongs and knives on sale in the middle of this rural community. In another store yesterday, I saw a sign that said, "Tobacco use only" for the bongs I saw.
I made it into Denton around noon and was ready for a break. I sat outside the grocery store and ate some lunch and drank refreshing, cool, liquids. I asked the cashier where the library was and she told me it was across from the schoolhouse. How charming! Now I'm relaxing in the Denton library. Seats and air conditioning are my new best friends!
I hit the road early which was great but it took me a while to get out of Greensboro. More country roads with corn and tractors being a common sight. I stopped at a corner store and was surprised at the bongs and knives on sale in the middle of this rural community. In another store yesterday, I saw a sign that said, "Tobacco use only" for the bongs I saw.
I made it into Denton around noon and was ready for a break. I sat outside the grocery store and ate some lunch and drank refreshing, cool, liquids. I asked the cashier where the library was and she told me it was across from the schoolhouse. How charming! Now I'm relaxing in the Denton library. Seats and air conditioning are my new best friends!
August 9th- Looking for a Place to Happen
When I left Denton, I stopped by the Dollar General for some supplies for the trip to Richfield. This town was 20 km away, had a food lion, and looked like there was a park nearby for some possible camping. I had just started some communication with Caroline of Spencer but that town was 30 km away and I didn't know if I had that distance in me. She insisted I pop by and I saw that she had a bed so I figured, why would I deny myself that small pleasure? She was now 33 km away due to my hoping on my bike, She asked if they could come pick me up but I declined. I powered through the distance but saw terribly dark clouds in the distance. I took a couple of wrong turns and then I was done. The rain started to come down hard. I was probably only about 5 km from the house but looking up the map in the rain is a pain at best.
Tom Greene was waiting in his driveway for me and ushered me into his garage and provided me with a towel, water, and a beer. Great service! I met Caroline and the two showed me the guest room as well as the shower. I hopped in and came out feeling refreshed even though I had just gotten soaked. It is a generous person who takes a stranger in after only 20 minutes of texting. Caroline was nice enough to make salmon burgers and was apologizing for the simplicity of the food. No complaints from me. Tom is a pilot who has flown for years while Caroline is retired but is currently flipping a house which keeps her busy. Their house was built in the 1920's when the town of Spencer was gearing up as the Steam Engine maintenance centre for the south. Their son is the warm showers connection as neither of them tours. They have 2 lovely dogs. Bailey is a small french poodle type while Lady is a mutt who has 3 legs. She is really into belly rubs! The Greenes were good enough to let me do a quick laundry and before we knew it, it was time to get to bed. I feel so grateful that I was able to meet them and get to know a little about the area. They suggested I try cornbread and BBQ for traditional southern cuisine.
This morning, I started out after saying goodbye to Tom and the dogs. It was sunny and cool and the ride down #29 wasn't great but it wasn't oo bad either. I stopped in at the China Grove Food Lion for breakfast and then took a series of smaller roads to get close to where I'm staying tonight. My host for Charlotte is...."Charlotte".
My brakes have been getting a little loose so yesterday morning, I was able to troubleshoot them and I actually repaired them. Felt good. never did that before. The biggest treat about Charlotte so far has been finding a Starbucks catty-corner from a library. Double win!
Tom Greene was waiting in his driveway for me and ushered me into his garage and provided me with a towel, water, and a beer. Great service! I met Caroline and the two showed me the guest room as well as the shower. I hopped in and came out feeling refreshed even though I had just gotten soaked. It is a generous person who takes a stranger in after only 20 minutes of texting. Caroline was nice enough to make salmon burgers and was apologizing for the simplicity of the food. No complaints from me. Tom is a pilot who has flown for years while Caroline is retired but is currently flipping a house which keeps her busy. Their house was built in the 1920's when the town of Spencer was gearing up as the Steam Engine maintenance centre for the south. Their son is the warm showers connection as neither of them tours. They have 2 lovely dogs. Bailey is a small french poodle type while Lady is a mutt who has 3 legs. She is really into belly rubs! The Greenes were good enough to let me do a quick laundry and before we knew it, it was time to get to bed. I feel so grateful that I was able to meet them and get to know a little about the area. They suggested I try cornbread and BBQ for traditional southern cuisine.
This morning, I started out after saying goodbye to Tom and the dogs. It was sunny and cool and the ride down #29 wasn't great but it wasn't oo bad either. I stopped in at the China Grove Food Lion for breakfast and then took a series of smaller roads to get close to where I'm staying tonight. My host for Charlotte is...."Charlotte".
My brakes have been getting a little loose so yesterday morning, I was able to troubleshoot them and I actually repaired them. Felt good. never did that before. The biggest treat about Charlotte so far has been finding a Starbucks catty-corner from a library. Double win!
August 10th- Can I find a Real Southerner? :)
Most of the hosts I've stayed with have been transplanted northerners. Charlotte in Charlotte was actually a Canadian who has moved around so much that she's from everywhere and nowhere all at once. I killed a few hours at the local library but found it really loud as teenagers were playing videos games at the top of their voices and no one seemed to care. Additionally, I need an outlet to charge my phone but none were near the comfy seats so I used the photocopier outlet. I didn't see a big problem but a lady looking around told me that I couldn't use that outlet. Hmmph! I shifted over to a cafe but found that it was closing. I stumbled a little further down the street and ended up at a place called "Feul Pizza". It had a lower income vibe to it but I found that the pizza and clientele were quiet interesting. They had a happy hour from 3-5 and the place got busy!
I wandered over to Charlotte's a little later and met her and her dog, Churio. Charlotte is running a bike camp for kids and having great success with it. She mentioned that a friend of hers wanted to make me dinner so I graciously accepted. Charlotte also was good enough to host me for 3 nights since I found out that Steve Earle AND Lucinda Williams and Dwight Yoakam will be playing on Saturday night. I couldn't possibly miss that show. Quite excited about it. Charlotte and I talked about bike culture in the city and I found out there is a real movement to make the town more bike friendly. Charlotte provided with a list of places to go the next day. Her husband Paul came home later but by then, I was tired and quickly went to bed. They worried the pull out sofa couch was going to be of poor quality but I found it was just great!
The next morning i headed to the Common market and I was walking up when a lady asked me if i was here for the cycling. I told her i wasn't from her and surprise, surprise, she knew Charlotte. She told me that I could get a free breakfast sandwich if I said I was cycling. The place inside was filled with posters, signs, stickers, etc. It was a sensory overload for sure. I managed to get my sandwich and drink and then joined Renee at her table . Renee had a strong accent and a moment later Beverly came by and it turns out that she runs the bike camp with Charlotte. After that Taj came by and it turns out he is a banker but is from London. Quite an international table that morning. Renee does commuter rides to show people how easy it is to ride to work. The store is a supporter of the rides so that is why the free sandwiches are associated with the ride. They were a nice group of people. They left to go to work and I hung around for a bit. It was an artsy neighourhood with lots of coffee shops and quirky stores and restaurants. I bought some drinks and headed to the park to play banjo for a bit before the Museum of the New South opened up. It was fun to play. I haven't played it in a while. I did get a chance to place on Charlotte's guitar for a few moments the night before. She also has a fiddle so I intend to play that before I leave as well! One of her friends is going to the jam/concert tonight so i will probably see her there.
I really enjoyed the New South Museum. It had Charlotte's history post-civil war and some of the exhibits were realistic store fronts and churches and barber shops. Charlotte was farming and then specifically cotton and then textiles and then the civil rights stuff featured prominently. The drinking fountains labelled whites and coloured were fascinating to look at. Education and disparity between the races also caught my attention. They made the mistake in the gift shop of having free samples of candied nuts and I sampled those things exhaustively! I almost went with an RC cola (made in Charlotte) but decided on a Cheerwine. Sort of like Dr. Pepper.
I got in contact with Pam Murray (the friend of Charlotte's who wanted to do dinner) and I ended up going to her house for lunch. She was so kind to me! She made me a lunch of pork tenderloin, lima beans, and fresh baked bread. There was fresh peach slices and a homemade lemon meringue pie for dessert. her husband Dennis and her are not warm showers hosts but they would be fantastic. She even let me use her laundry and gave me a spork (part knife, spoon, and fork-mine had busted and i was using the separate parts as well as a reflective ribbon and one of the stickers that get me free stuff around town. Apparently, there is a pub called birdsong which will give me a free beer with it. I know where my next stop is going to be! Her family had just gone to Montreal so we talked a little about the difference between there and Quebec City. Next time, she needs to go to Quebec City. The 2 hours passed quickly but I was astounded at how generous she was. She hasn't done any long touring but I'm hoping that they will become warm shower hosts. It's a strange thing letting someone into your space but I am so grateful for the people who have taken a chance on me. I need to prepare meals for my guests next time. I have had too many good meals not to.
Tonight is the bluegrass jam/concert. I probably won't take part in the jam but might watch a bit. The guy playing is "Terry Baucom and Dukes of Drive". He has played with several pro players. Should be a good show. A busy but fulfilling day!
I wandered over to Charlotte's a little later and met her and her dog, Churio. Charlotte is running a bike camp for kids and having great success with it. She mentioned that a friend of hers wanted to make me dinner so I graciously accepted. Charlotte also was good enough to host me for 3 nights since I found out that Steve Earle AND Lucinda Williams and Dwight Yoakam will be playing on Saturday night. I couldn't possibly miss that show. Quite excited about it. Charlotte and I talked about bike culture in the city and I found out there is a real movement to make the town more bike friendly. Charlotte provided with a list of places to go the next day. Her husband Paul came home later but by then, I was tired and quickly went to bed. They worried the pull out sofa couch was going to be of poor quality but I found it was just great!
The next morning i headed to the Common market and I was walking up when a lady asked me if i was here for the cycling. I told her i wasn't from her and surprise, surprise, she knew Charlotte. She told me that I could get a free breakfast sandwich if I said I was cycling. The place inside was filled with posters, signs, stickers, etc. It was a sensory overload for sure. I managed to get my sandwich and drink and then joined Renee at her table . Renee had a strong accent and a moment later Beverly came by and it turns out that she runs the bike camp with Charlotte. After that Taj came by and it turns out he is a banker but is from London. Quite an international table that morning. Renee does commuter rides to show people how easy it is to ride to work. The store is a supporter of the rides so that is why the free sandwiches are associated with the ride. They were a nice group of people. They left to go to work and I hung around for a bit. It was an artsy neighourhood with lots of coffee shops and quirky stores and restaurants. I bought some drinks and headed to the park to play banjo for a bit before the Museum of the New South opened up. It was fun to play. I haven't played it in a while. I did get a chance to place on Charlotte's guitar for a few moments the night before. She also has a fiddle so I intend to play that before I leave as well! One of her friends is going to the jam/concert tonight so i will probably see her there.
I really enjoyed the New South Museum. It had Charlotte's history post-civil war and some of the exhibits were realistic store fronts and churches and barber shops. Charlotte was farming and then specifically cotton and then textiles and then the civil rights stuff featured prominently. The drinking fountains labelled whites and coloured were fascinating to look at. Education and disparity between the races also caught my attention. They made the mistake in the gift shop of having free samples of candied nuts and I sampled those things exhaustively! I almost went with an RC cola (made in Charlotte) but decided on a Cheerwine. Sort of like Dr. Pepper.
I got in contact with Pam Murray (the friend of Charlotte's who wanted to do dinner) and I ended up going to her house for lunch. She was so kind to me! She made me a lunch of pork tenderloin, lima beans, and fresh baked bread. There was fresh peach slices and a homemade lemon meringue pie for dessert. her husband Dennis and her are not warm showers hosts but they would be fantastic. She even let me use her laundry and gave me a spork (part knife, spoon, and fork-mine had busted and i was using the separate parts as well as a reflective ribbon and one of the stickers that get me free stuff around town. Apparently, there is a pub called birdsong which will give me a free beer with it. I know where my next stop is going to be! Her family had just gone to Montreal so we talked a little about the difference between there and Quebec City. Next time, she needs to go to Quebec City. The 2 hours passed quickly but I was astounded at how generous she was. She hasn't done any long touring but I'm hoping that they will become warm shower hosts. It's a strange thing letting someone into your space but I am so grateful for the people who have taken a chance on me. I need to prepare meals for my guests next time. I have had too many good meals not to.
Tonight is the bluegrass jam/concert. I probably won't take part in the jam but might watch a bit. The guy playing is "Terry Baucom and Dukes of Drive". He has played with several pro players. Should be a good show. A busy but fulfilling day!
Aug 11th-Aug 13th Charlotte/Rutherfordton/Ashville
There was a time once, maybe during the first week of July, when I would buy my groceries, pack them up, and then find a park to eat them in. No longer. I have become strangely comfortable just sitting on the side of the, usually Food Lion or Dollar General building and eat my purchase. I sometimes snack on a pint of ice cream an am not bothered by what people think of the homeless looking man eating ice cream out of the carton and 9 am in the morning! All I need is a sign saying, "Spare Change?' on it.
It's been a busy few days. I took in the Bluegrass concert at Aunt Stella's Concert hall and was impressed by the quality of the playing. I didn't want to get home too late so i did't take in the jam. I missed talking to Paul, (Charlotte's husband) the night before so it was fun to talk to both of them about my day ad my impressions of Charlotte (the town) in general. We all had a laugh about the sheer volume of things in the Common market Store. It's not fair to say it is just a deli or a coffee shop. Novelties, cards, beer, etc are in the shop ad it's overwhelming at first. I felt like I had opened the Arc of Covenant. So much stuff in there that I couldn't process it all. Later in the day, I went to Songbird, a local brewery. I met an interesting lady named Heather who had a jack Russel dog with her in the the brewery. She had just moved to Charlotte after an unsuccessful marriage to a 2 time Grammy winner. Heather herself did music and played fiddle and sang ad released some albums. I didn't get the name of he ex but he must be good enough to win a Grammy. We made tentative plans to drive into the mountains the next day. I rushed off to go see the music show. A successful day in Charlotte.
The next day, I was't entirely surprised to see that Heather had cancelled plans to go to the mountains. I had another breakfast at the Common market, ate some muffins at Nova bakery, and relaxed at the library. Charlotte and Paul left a key so I good go back a little early and played a little fiddle. It wasn't as nice as the Petersburg fiddle but it was still good to play. I headed over to the Music Factory and made my way to the amphitheatre. For a minute, I thought I was in Switzerland as the prices of the beer were $14 for a pint. What in blazes???!! I sat on the lawn and watched the show. Steve Earle was first and I got to see him and Lucinda Williams sing, "You're Still Standing There". "Galloway Girl" is another of my favourites. People went nuts over the "Copperhead Road" song. I wonder if he still likes singing it. Lucinda Williams was next and I'm not as familiar with her music but i love her voice. "I Lost it", "Drunken Angel" and "You Stole my Joy" were great. The last guy was Dwight Yoakum ad his band was impressive. The fiddle player also played pedal steel an piano. I'd forgotten how many good songs Dwight has. He did a Buck Owens tune and also one for Merle Haggard. A solid night of music! The highlight of the show was the encore where Dwight, Linda, and Steve sang "Dim Lights" which is a favourite bluegrass song of mine. Sounded so good!
It was late when I got back ad Paul and the new Warm Showers guest, Jack, had gone to the shop because the airlines had crushed Jack's bike. Yikes! I caught Charlotte playing guitar and singing. We recapped the day quickly before Paul and jack came back and declared success! Jack was from the UK and was meeting up with his friend and biking up to Toronto. We talked about distances and he said anyone could ride that it was just a matter of not taking breaks and keeping pedalling. I have kept this thought in my head for a few days now. Before long, we were all tired. I said my goodbyes as I was heading out early. Churo slept with me for a bit. She also licked my face a hands which was cute and annnoyig at the same time. I crept out and packed up quickly before heading to a nearby coffee shop to fuel up.
I had booked a lawn in Rutherfordton with Lewis who wasn't even going to be there. It was 130 km so I really had to hustle. I went through the downtown of Charlotte and saw a little bit of poverty before getting back out into the suburbs. I found my friend Food Lion and had another bit of breakfast. The roads were clear as it was a Sunday and the sun was shining but somehow it seemed cooler outside. By 10 I was tired so I took a break at McDonald's. I charged my phone and looked for places to stay in Ashville. I sent a request to a guy in Ashville who it seemed, would take anyone. I sent it off and got a "no" response almost immediately. Usually when people say no, they quickly provide a note to explain why. Nothing from this guy, just a no. I checked his profile and he wanted people to comment specifically on it. I hadn't so he turned me down. I sent him a note trying to explain how cyclists are busy and have to pedal to go where they go. There is't always time to read the profile and compose a novel to the person. Still, I respect his choice to set his standards. No matter, I got a response from Cheyero, a gentlemen who lives in Ashville. It all works out.
My time to Rutherfordton passed well. I made it in by 7 pm and set up my tent. Lewis had left beer in his outside fridge so I was happy. I saw his neighbours arrive across the street so I went to introduce myself. I am not entirely sure they understood what I said but I got lots of grunting and smiling in return so I at least made sure they wouldn't call the police on me!
Lewis raises bees. There were hives all around the place but the bees don't bother you. I washed, hung up my wet laundry, and pulled out my banjo. It was nice to play under the setting sun. The birds in the bamboo grove were having a convention because it was loud! I read for a bit before going to sleep. How generous of someone to offer their space when they are not even there!
I had made good distance to Ashville the day before so it was a relatively easy 80 km to Ashville proper. I left at 7;30 after my muffin and chocolate milk breakfast. I said goodbye to the bees and went down the road. I have liked North Carolina immensely but they are not big fans of sholders. So, this means I am in the lane when traffic comes by. It's a little more dangerous but most people are careful. Had one close call but did not actually touch the car. The scenery around Lake Lure was sort of Cottageish and there were lots of boats around. The local hotel had contained the whole cast of "Dirty Dancing" so I wonder if they actually filmed it since it was a nice resort town. They had this neat pedestrian bridge that had flowers and art on it. It was really cool. What I noticed was that there was a lot of uphill. Long, slow grades but it took time to make the kilometres. When I pulled off the main highway, I was heading into the hills. I went slowly but steadily through the fruit orchards that surrounded the twisting and turning two lane highway. The road was great because there was no traffic but also no stores and I soon emptied my water supply. I did pass a peach orchard and saw a peach on the ground that looked good. It was so sweet ad delicious. Better than anything I had bought in the store! My google map put me on a road that was gravelly. I stopped and asked a lady outside if it went for a long time. She told me that it was a short stretch and that it went back to paved soon. She told me I good buy stuff In Hooper's Creek. It was an 11 km ride there but that uphill road made that tricky. I also missed a turnoff and added some distance to my trip. I made it to a grocery store/diner and bought liquids and french fires. Delicious. But no power so I would just have to conserve. I didn't feel I could make the full 22 km all at once so I decided to find a McDonalds and power up my phone. When I got to the McDonalds, they did not have outlets, Boo! I mapped out a library nearby and it said 3 km away. What it didn't say was the 3 km was all up hill. How can a city be so hilly? It might be a bit better when I return, my host's place is in the north. I'm on the outskirts but for the most part, am in Ashville. Look forward to exploring it!
It's been a busy few days. I took in the Bluegrass concert at Aunt Stella's Concert hall and was impressed by the quality of the playing. I didn't want to get home too late so i did't take in the jam. I missed talking to Paul, (Charlotte's husband) the night before so it was fun to talk to both of them about my day ad my impressions of Charlotte (the town) in general. We all had a laugh about the sheer volume of things in the Common market Store. It's not fair to say it is just a deli or a coffee shop. Novelties, cards, beer, etc are in the shop ad it's overwhelming at first. I felt like I had opened the Arc of Covenant. So much stuff in there that I couldn't process it all. Later in the day, I went to Songbird, a local brewery. I met an interesting lady named Heather who had a jack Russel dog with her in the the brewery. She had just moved to Charlotte after an unsuccessful marriage to a 2 time Grammy winner. Heather herself did music and played fiddle and sang ad released some albums. I didn't get the name of he ex but he must be good enough to win a Grammy. We made tentative plans to drive into the mountains the next day. I rushed off to go see the music show. A successful day in Charlotte.
The next day, I was't entirely surprised to see that Heather had cancelled plans to go to the mountains. I had another breakfast at the Common market, ate some muffins at Nova bakery, and relaxed at the library. Charlotte and Paul left a key so I good go back a little early and played a little fiddle. It wasn't as nice as the Petersburg fiddle but it was still good to play. I headed over to the Music Factory and made my way to the amphitheatre. For a minute, I thought I was in Switzerland as the prices of the beer were $14 for a pint. What in blazes???!! I sat on the lawn and watched the show. Steve Earle was first and I got to see him and Lucinda Williams sing, "You're Still Standing There". "Galloway Girl" is another of my favourites. People went nuts over the "Copperhead Road" song. I wonder if he still likes singing it. Lucinda Williams was next and I'm not as familiar with her music but i love her voice. "I Lost it", "Drunken Angel" and "You Stole my Joy" were great. The last guy was Dwight Yoakum ad his band was impressive. The fiddle player also played pedal steel an piano. I'd forgotten how many good songs Dwight has. He did a Buck Owens tune and also one for Merle Haggard. A solid night of music! The highlight of the show was the encore where Dwight, Linda, and Steve sang "Dim Lights" which is a favourite bluegrass song of mine. Sounded so good!
It was late when I got back ad Paul and the new Warm Showers guest, Jack, had gone to the shop because the airlines had crushed Jack's bike. Yikes! I caught Charlotte playing guitar and singing. We recapped the day quickly before Paul and jack came back and declared success! Jack was from the UK and was meeting up with his friend and biking up to Toronto. We talked about distances and he said anyone could ride that it was just a matter of not taking breaks and keeping pedalling. I have kept this thought in my head for a few days now. Before long, we were all tired. I said my goodbyes as I was heading out early. Churo slept with me for a bit. She also licked my face a hands which was cute and annnoyig at the same time. I crept out and packed up quickly before heading to a nearby coffee shop to fuel up.
I had booked a lawn in Rutherfordton with Lewis who wasn't even going to be there. It was 130 km so I really had to hustle. I went through the downtown of Charlotte and saw a little bit of poverty before getting back out into the suburbs. I found my friend Food Lion and had another bit of breakfast. The roads were clear as it was a Sunday and the sun was shining but somehow it seemed cooler outside. By 10 I was tired so I took a break at McDonald's. I charged my phone and looked for places to stay in Ashville. I sent a request to a guy in Ashville who it seemed, would take anyone. I sent it off and got a "no" response almost immediately. Usually when people say no, they quickly provide a note to explain why. Nothing from this guy, just a no. I checked his profile and he wanted people to comment specifically on it. I hadn't so he turned me down. I sent him a note trying to explain how cyclists are busy and have to pedal to go where they go. There is't always time to read the profile and compose a novel to the person. Still, I respect his choice to set his standards. No matter, I got a response from Cheyero, a gentlemen who lives in Ashville. It all works out.
My time to Rutherfordton passed well. I made it in by 7 pm and set up my tent. Lewis had left beer in his outside fridge so I was happy. I saw his neighbours arrive across the street so I went to introduce myself. I am not entirely sure they understood what I said but I got lots of grunting and smiling in return so I at least made sure they wouldn't call the police on me!
Lewis raises bees. There were hives all around the place but the bees don't bother you. I washed, hung up my wet laundry, and pulled out my banjo. It was nice to play under the setting sun. The birds in the bamboo grove were having a convention because it was loud! I read for a bit before going to sleep. How generous of someone to offer their space when they are not even there!
I had made good distance to Ashville the day before so it was a relatively easy 80 km to Ashville proper. I left at 7;30 after my muffin and chocolate milk breakfast. I said goodbye to the bees and went down the road. I have liked North Carolina immensely but they are not big fans of sholders. So, this means I am in the lane when traffic comes by. It's a little more dangerous but most people are careful. Had one close call but did not actually touch the car. The scenery around Lake Lure was sort of Cottageish and there were lots of boats around. The local hotel had contained the whole cast of "Dirty Dancing" so I wonder if they actually filmed it since it was a nice resort town. They had this neat pedestrian bridge that had flowers and art on it. It was really cool. What I noticed was that there was a lot of uphill. Long, slow grades but it took time to make the kilometres. When I pulled off the main highway, I was heading into the hills. I went slowly but steadily through the fruit orchards that surrounded the twisting and turning two lane highway. The road was great because there was no traffic but also no stores and I soon emptied my water supply. I did pass a peach orchard and saw a peach on the ground that looked good. It was so sweet ad delicious. Better than anything I had bought in the store! My google map put me on a road that was gravelly. I stopped and asked a lady outside if it went for a long time. She told me that it was a short stretch and that it went back to paved soon. She told me I good buy stuff In Hooper's Creek. It was an 11 km ride there but that uphill road made that tricky. I also missed a turnoff and added some distance to my trip. I made it to a grocery store/diner and bought liquids and french fires. Delicious. But no power so I would just have to conserve. I didn't feel I could make the full 22 km all at once so I decided to find a McDonalds and power up my phone. When I got to the McDonalds, they did not have outlets, Boo! I mapped out a library nearby and it said 3 km away. What it didn't say was the 3 km was all up hill. How can a city be so hilly? It might be a bit better when I return, my host's place is in the north. I'm on the outskirts but for the most part, am in Ashville. Look forward to exploring it!
Aug 14- It's All About that Bass
I am still marvelling at how a city can be built entirely on upslopes. I travelled from the south end of town to the north end of town to get to Tim's, Ashville host. The google maps took me through this completely ritzy part of town that was more like a national park than a neighbourhood. The houses were better described as estates and it was a completely shaded road. Strange to think that the major highway was only a kilometre or two over. I found Tim to be a pleasant guy. He is a retiree from Texas and hasn't lived in Ashville that long. He told me I was lucky to get a yes from him because he usually doesn't take "domestic" guests. I told him that I found the south like being in a different country. Perceptions are interesting. We went out to Archetype Brewing and saw a bluegrass jam. Everyone was so good there. The quality of the groups was all top notch. I got to talking with a fiddle player and he said I should try the bass out. I chatted with the bass player and he said yes. When we started the first tune, the guitar player said I was off! A first for me. I "fixed" myself and got back on track. I eventually got the series of chord changes. So much for playing with the big kids!
Tim was nice enough to give me a tour of downtown. The Breweries seem to be the thing in Ashville. Music goes along with that as does food. It's a tourist town for sure. The town streets are also so mixed up. No grid patterns at all. It's tough navigating here.
I did enjoy a coffee and cookie at the Fair Trade Coffee Shop. I wrote postcards and mapped out future hosts too. I'm heading over to Knoxville but not sure of what route I should take. I think I have to cross real mountains though. I'm sure they'll have water fountains along the bike trail though. No Food Lions up there I don't think.
I'm noticing at the libraries I'm visiting is that they double as homeless shelters. I was talking to Charlotte about this and they are one of the last places where you can simply sit without having to pay. I am constantly charging my phone or using their wi-fi. I love them. Hopefully, no one is wondering why the homeless man has biking shorts on...
There's another music show on tonight and then I head out Knoxville way. I've enjoyed my time in Ashville. Nice city.
Tim was nice enough to give me a tour of downtown. The Breweries seem to be the thing in Ashville. Music goes along with that as does food. It's a tourist town for sure. The town streets are also so mixed up. No grid patterns at all. It's tough navigating here.
I did enjoy a coffee and cookie at the Fair Trade Coffee Shop. I wrote postcards and mapped out future hosts too. I'm heading over to Knoxville but not sure of what route I should take. I think I have to cross real mountains though. I'm sure they'll have water fountains along the bike trail though. No Food Lions up there I don't think.
I'm noticing at the libraries I'm visiting is that they double as homeless shelters. I was talking to Charlotte about this and they are one of the last places where you can simply sit without having to pay. I am constantly charging my phone or using their wi-fi. I love them. Hopefully, no one is wondering why the homeless man has biking shorts on...
There's another music show on tonight and then I head out Knoxville way. I've enjoyed my time in Ashville. Nice city.
Aug.14/15 Meet Up and ISIS
I became a supporter of ISIS. ISIS is a music venue and there was a band by the name of "Unspoken Tradition". They played original bluegrass music and were a solid band. The jam portion had other players and they were awesome as well. I enjoyed going to see this venue that seats about 200. Tim, my ASheville host, wasn't too familiar with bluegrass but was saying that he was starting to get into it. The one flaw in the evening was the young who insisted on clapping on beat 2 and 4 for most of the songs. It was annoying at the best of times but got intolerable when he was off about 1/32 of a beat. Luckily, his hands started to hurt so it wasn't a long term thing. I applaud his enthusiasm for the music but leave the hand claps for disco!
Before we went to ISIS. I don't know why the club has that name-it's unfortunate. We went to a "meet Up" event at the Belgium Brewery. Meet ups are these random groups of people who get together under a topic. The group that Tim was with was Early Retirees/new to Asheville". I wasn't sure about meeting a group of strangers but it turned out to be a lot of fun. I met a sassy lady named Suzy from Florida who had been to Banff and was in love with the country. I also met another lady named Jesse, from New York, who had just moved to the area. We talked my bike trip but also about people moving around in the south and how there was no one spot that was homogenous anymore. A couple beside me got up and left and a minute later I noticed the sunglasses lying around so I ran out to the parking lot but the guy said they weren't his. I turned around and Tim was close behind. He thought my bike had been stolen or something because I was running to the parking lot. That made me laugh. I will continue to laugh about that.He really takes his hosting seriously! The brewery was right by the French Broad river so it was quite pleasant. I tried to buy some beers for the table but was not allowed to take more than 1 beer per person. I even suggested that I take one out at a time but they wouldn't allow it. It was the hardest beer buying session I've ever been involved in. I guess its the rules.
In the morning, I got spoken to by a policeman because I ignored a stop sign. It was about 7 in the morning and no one was downtown but I guess they take their traffic rules seriously. I promised not to do it again. The Pack Public Library essentially was a homeless shelter. I was able to use the wifi for a bit once I used the guest pass that I bought for a $1 but I ran into trouble when I attempted to use the computers. It was like I wasn't speaking English. The lady I was dealing with was growing more impatient so I reached out to the lady who had helped me before and I ended up getting booked on a computer. I'm finding more and more that people have a hard time understanding me. So much so that I am slowing down my speech! When I was at the computer, a gentlemen across the way said that his computer had just shut down. I told him that he had probably used up his time. He said that he was playing chess and that it was his best game ever. We laughed! He came over and we got to talking. He had just done 9 years for 3 grams of marijauna and his wife had divorced him and took all the proceeds of his house. he wasn't bitter but was asking my advice on what to do. Poor guy. I told him to definitely see a lawyer for help. We talked about Toronto for a bit and he asked if they had fast horses and slow women there. I was a bit puzzled before he started laughing. A funny expression. Before he left he introduced himself as Lavone. He shuffled off with his cane.
Tim had suggested I eat at a place called the Med Grill. This place was close to the library so I biked over there and it was out of the 70's. It was a short menu but I noticed they had Catfish and Crab Cakes. I got some of those and read while my meal was cooked. It has an old school status because lots of customers were regulars and they had pictures of Jude Law and Allison Krause who had been to the restaurant. They didn't have wi-fi and made no apologies for it. I really enjoyed the atmosphere and the meal there. Much to my surprise, Lavone wandered in and sat at the counter. I was worried that he didn't have any money but he ate and paid for his meal before he left. He said hello to me as he left and he said that it was a small town! A neat guy. I hope things work out for him.
I had orginally been thinking about heading through the mountains to Knoxville but my Knoxville hosts have stopped speaking to me. So, I'm going to go south through Greenville, Athens, and then through Gainesville before breaking into Tenesee and the Chatanouga. It's not hot, traffic is light, grocery stores are plentiful which makes up for another part of my rack cracking and breaking. I bought some Duct tape. Together with the zip ties on the bottom, this bike is being held together with prayers. Just has to hold out another 2 weeks. I see on Facebook that my poor city Prince George is getting smoked out. So glad I am not there breathing in the smoke! Be strong Prince George!
Before we went to ISIS. I don't know why the club has that name-it's unfortunate. We went to a "meet Up" event at the Belgium Brewery. Meet ups are these random groups of people who get together under a topic. The group that Tim was with was Early Retirees/new to Asheville". I wasn't sure about meeting a group of strangers but it turned out to be a lot of fun. I met a sassy lady named Suzy from Florida who had been to Banff and was in love with the country. I also met another lady named Jesse, from New York, who had just moved to the area. We talked my bike trip but also about people moving around in the south and how there was no one spot that was homogenous anymore. A couple beside me got up and left and a minute later I noticed the sunglasses lying around so I ran out to the parking lot but the guy said they weren't his. I turned around and Tim was close behind. He thought my bike had been stolen or something because I was running to the parking lot. That made me laugh. I will continue to laugh about that.He really takes his hosting seriously! The brewery was right by the French Broad river so it was quite pleasant. I tried to buy some beers for the table but was not allowed to take more than 1 beer per person. I even suggested that I take one out at a time but they wouldn't allow it. It was the hardest beer buying session I've ever been involved in. I guess its the rules.
In the morning, I got spoken to by a policeman because I ignored a stop sign. It was about 7 in the morning and no one was downtown but I guess they take their traffic rules seriously. I promised not to do it again. The Pack Public Library essentially was a homeless shelter. I was able to use the wifi for a bit once I used the guest pass that I bought for a $1 but I ran into trouble when I attempted to use the computers. It was like I wasn't speaking English. The lady I was dealing with was growing more impatient so I reached out to the lady who had helped me before and I ended up getting booked on a computer. I'm finding more and more that people have a hard time understanding me. So much so that I am slowing down my speech! When I was at the computer, a gentlemen across the way said that his computer had just shut down. I told him that he had probably used up his time. He said that he was playing chess and that it was his best game ever. We laughed! He came over and we got to talking. He had just done 9 years for 3 grams of marijauna and his wife had divorced him and took all the proceeds of his house. he wasn't bitter but was asking my advice on what to do. Poor guy. I told him to definitely see a lawyer for help. We talked about Toronto for a bit and he asked if they had fast horses and slow women there. I was a bit puzzled before he started laughing. A funny expression. Before he left he introduced himself as Lavone. He shuffled off with his cane.
Tim had suggested I eat at a place called the Med Grill. This place was close to the library so I biked over there and it was out of the 70's. It was a short menu but I noticed they had Catfish and Crab Cakes. I got some of those and read while my meal was cooked. It has an old school status because lots of customers were regulars and they had pictures of Jude Law and Allison Krause who had been to the restaurant. They didn't have wi-fi and made no apologies for it. I really enjoyed the atmosphere and the meal there. Much to my surprise, Lavone wandered in and sat at the counter. I was worried that he didn't have any money but he ate and paid for his meal before he left. He said hello to me as he left and he said that it was a small town! A neat guy. I hope things work out for him.
I had orginally been thinking about heading through the mountains to Knoxville but my Knoxville hosts have stopped speaking to me. So, I'm going to go south through Greenville, Athens, and then through Gainesville before breaking into Tenesee and the Chatanouga. It's not hot, traffic is light, grocery stores are plentiful which makes up for another part of my rack cracking and breaking. I bought some Duct tape. Together with the zip ties on the bottom, this bike is being held together with prayers. Just has to hold out another 2 weeks. I see on Facebook that my poor city Prince George is getting smoked out. So glad I am not there breathing in the smoke! Be strong Prince George!
August 16th-Change of Plans
The checkout guy at "Ingles" marvelled at my bike trip and told me how great it was. "All it takes is your legs man!" he exclaimed. "and a little bit of my soul each day" I replied. We got a chuckle out of that.
The roads weren't too bad going south and there were lots of spots to stop for refreshment.
I came across the South Carolina State Line sign and took a picture. I then had the best 20 km downhill experience of this trip. The road kept going down and down. The best part was there was virtually no traffic. I did notice the roads weren't quite as nice as Carolina though. I was making great time. I had sent out some requests in Asheville and I got two positive responses. I choose Pam because she was closer and had a dog.
I saw a barber in a tiny town and thought about getting my haircut but he wanted $15 for a buzz. Too rich for my blood. Further down the highway, I came across a Moonshine store and had a sample. Pure gutrot! And I only had a tiny, tiny shot of it! Pam told me to take the Swamp Rabbit trail at Travellers Rest and I did. Before I set out, I chugged down 1.5 litres of Gatorade and made my way over to Big Mama Pink Ice Cream and got white chocolate lavender two scoops in a cup for $7, It was good but I'm not sure it was $7 good. The trail was great! Fully paved and separated from traffic. Just what I needed. I don't usually take the multiple stop signs seriously because the roads or trails are so quiet. I sort of look left and right and continue to cruise. Well, the first one, I looked and saw a car coming so I started to turn back but in that lane to my left, an even faster car was coming. Not a close call but it could have gotten messy if I went through at my usual speed. From then on, I did full stops!
I made it into the town proper and checked out the falls.They were pretty. I found the Spill the Beans coffee shop and waited until pam was ready to go home. I met up with Kevin who agreed to host me but had his place a little farther out of town. He was a really great guy who did transportation for Canada for Michellin. He'd travelled extensively in Canada and was familiar with many of the cities. He took a leave for 3 months and really enjoyed himself with all the travelling. We went to a Tapas bar where he was meeting some friends and talked about the south. His friends Darius joined us and I got filled in on the best places to buy biscuits in Nashville. They were both down to earth guys. I had one drink and then went off to find Pam's house.
Just in case I was tired of the flat, Pam's house was located on a bunch of hills. Good times. I finally found the house and she welcomed me in, got me showered, and got me lots to drink. Her dog snoopy, liked to play tug of war and laid down beside me for pats. Pam and I talked bikes for a while and I told her that it was neat to not know where I was going to stay in the morning but by nighttime, things had usually sorted themselves out. I had a great sleep in the bed and woke up and let Snoopy out of his cage. I had a quick breakfast and met Pam just as I was getting ready to push off. I thanked her again and headed out into the warm morning.
Travelling down the high way has been pretty calm and I'm looking forward to breaking into Georgia. I stopped in Anderson and checked out the local museum. Not a bad museum for such a small town. I'm noticing that the zip ties are getting cut by the brake cables. I was able to save 2 of the 4. They just have to hang on a little longer! On to Hartwell, Georgia for tonight I think.
The roads weren't too bad going south and there were lots of spots to stop for refreshment.
I came across the South Carolina State Line sign and took a picture. I then had the best 20 km downhill experience of this trip. The road kept going down and down. The best part was there was virtually no traffic. I did notice the roads weren't quite as nice as Carolina though. I was making great time. I had sent out some requests in Asheville and I got two positive responses. I choose Pam because she was closer and had a dog.
I saw a barber in a tiny town and thought about getting my haircut but he wanted $15 for a buzz. Too rich for my blood. Further down the highway, I came across a Moonshine store and had a sample. Pure gutrot! And I only had a tiny, tiny shot of it! Pam told me to take the Swamp Rabbit trail at Travellers Rest and I did. Before I set out, I chugged down 1.5 litres of Gatorade and made my way over to Big Mama Pink Ice Cream and got white chocolate lavender two scoops in a cup for $7, It was good but I'm not sure it was $7 good. The trail was great! Fully paved and separated from traffic. Just what I needed. I don't usually take the multiple stop signs seriously because the roads or trails are so quiet. I sort of look left and right and continue to cruise. Well, the first one, I looked and saw a car coming so I started to turn back but in that lane to my left, an even faster car was coming. Not a close call but it could have gotten messy if I went through at my usual speed. From then on, I did full stops!
I made it into the town proper and checked out the falls.They were pretty. I found the Spill the Beans coffee shop and waited until pam was ready to go home. I met up with Kevin who agreed to host me but had his place a little farther out of town. He was a really great guy who did transportation for Canada for Michellin. He'd travelled extensively in Canada and was familiar with many of the cities. He took a leave for 3 months and really enjoyed himself with all the travelling. We went to a Tapas bar where he was meeting some friends and talked about the south. His friends Darius joined us and I got filled in on the best places to buy biscuits in Nashville. They were both down to earth guys. I had one drink and then went off to find Pam's house.
Just in case I was tired of the flat, Pam's house was located on a bunch of hills. Good times. I finally found the house and she welcomed me in, got me showered, and got me lots to drink. Her dog snoopy, liked to play tug of war and laid down beside me for pats. Pam and I talked bikes for a while and I told her that it was neat to not know where I was going to stay in the morning but by nighttime, things had usually sorted themselves out. I had a great sleep in the bed and woke up and let Snoopy out of his cage. I had a quick breakfast and met Pam just as I was getting ready to push off. I thanked her again and headed out into the warm morning.
Travelling down the high way has been pretty calm and I'm looking forward to breaking into Georgia. I stopped in Anderson and checked out the local museum. Not a bad museum for such a small town. I'm noticing that the zip ties are getting cut by the brake cables. I was able to save 2 of the 4. They just have to hang on a little longer! On to Hartwell, Georgia for tonight I think.
August 17th- Georgia on my Mind
I was telling Pam, my Greenville host, that I was upset about the lack of full litre containers here but that the 1.89 litre containers were too much. Somehow, at the Food Lion, I grabbed a 2 quart container of chocolate milk thinking it was a smaller size. I was able to finish it but felt a bit like a snake must after devouring its prey. No more 2 quart adventures!
I made it to Hartwell and was delighted to find the library was open late. It was a nice leisurely ride down from South Carolina and crossing over the Savannah River into Georgia was pretty. The library had won best library of the state in 2016. Go Bulldogs! I relaxed there for a bit and sent out some couch surfing requests but there was no love for me in Georgia apparently. I ate at McDonalds and watched a bit of Netflix until it was dark, then made my way back to the library and set up my tent behind the trees. The bonus was that I had wi-fi! Just like home! :) I can't say I slept all that comfortably, lots of cars were parking during the night. I guess they were bringing back overdue library books or something.
The next morning, I headed out early and my Athens host, Richard, told me to avoid Why #29 so I did. The place was quite rural but I had so many dogs try to chase me. Not so good when the roads are narrow. I did find some friendly dogs outside a grocery store, that was nice. One of the scariest things that I saw was that students were at the schools and the teachers appeared to be at work. Those poor teachers. I was told later that they start the same time as the university.
I made into Athens through suburban back roads and was checking out my way into downtown when a guy on a bike asked if I needed help. I told him I was looking to get to downtown and he gave me quick instructions and then said, "I don't know if you're interested in music, but the 'Murmur Trestle' is just down that trail there". I am a huge REM fan so I was delighted. He filled me in on all the other spots I might want to check out during my visit. It turns out that he was the head of the cycling group in Athens. I followed the trail and found the wooden Trestle bridge that REM stuck on the back of their Murmur Album. Cool. I made my way into downtown and stopped to get a drink. The lady at the counter told me that she needed to get on her bike and gave me a few recommendations for hanging out in town. I went to "World's Famous" which was a tiny bar/diner. I had a massive veggie burger. Delicious.
Athens is a college town and there are young people everywhere! Bulldogs statues are all over the streets too since the football team are the Georgia State Bulldogs. There are also music venues galore in this town.
I made my way out of downtown a few miles and found the house of Richard Saunders who is my Athens host. Richard is an older man but very active and loves organic gardening, biking, and sharing stories about the area. He cooked me a fantastic dinner of chicken, beans, and potatoes. All sautéed in loads of butter. Delicious!
After dinner, he provided some suggestions for things to see in Athens. It was sort of like a quest. The most mysterious was "The Tree that owned itself".
This morning, I made my way back downtown and had a brownie and smoothie at Jittery Joe's Coffee. I saw the Church Steeple from REM's first show. The actual church has been demolished for condos. The football business has been great for Athens. People buy condos to have a place to stay for the games. That's all they do, watch the games and the condo remains empty the rest of the time. Crazy! I also ventured over to the 40 Watt Club where REM played many times. I almost took in a show yesterday but was far too tired from my Hartwell Library stay. I'll go see some music today. I know there are a few breweries that have free music going on.
Trains are integrated within cities everywhere across America. They roll along and through the fringes on the town and hearing the trains is a common thing. I like that.
I made it to Hartwell and was delighted to find the library was open late. It was a nice leisurely ride down from South Carolina and crossing over the Savannah River into Georgia was pretty. The library had won best library of the state in 2016. Go Bulldogs! I relaxed there for a bit and sent out some couch surfing requests but there was no love for me in Georgia apparently. I ate at McDonalds and watched a bit of Netflix until it was dark, then made my way back to the library and set up my tent behind the trees. The bonus was that I had wi-fi! Just like home! :) I can't say I slept all that comfortably, lots of cars were parking during the night. I guess they were bringing back overdue library books or something.
The next morning, I headed out early and my Athens host, Richard, told me to avoid Why #29 so I did. The place was quite rural but I had so many dogs try to chase me. Not so good when the roads are narrow. I did find some friendly dogs outside a grocery store, that was nice. One of the scariest things that I saw was that students were at the schools and the teachers appeared to be at work. Those poor teachers. I was told later that they start the same time as the university.
I made into Athens through suburban back roads and was checking out my way into downtown when a guy on a bike asked if I needed help. I told him I was looking to get to downtown and he gave me quick instructions and then said, "I don't know if you're interested in music, but the 'Murmur Trestle' is just down that trail there". I am a huge REM fan so I was delighted. He filled me in on all the other spots I might want to check out during my visit. It turns out that he was the head of the cycling group in Athens. I followed the trail and found the wooden Trestle bridge that REM stuck on the back of their Murmur Album. Cool. I made my way into downtown and stopped to get a drink. The lady at the counter told me that she needed to get on her bike and gave me a few recommendations for hanging out in town. I went to "World's Famous" which was a tiny bar/diner. I had a massive veggie burger. Delicious.
Athens is a college town and there are young people everywhere! Bulldogs statues are all over the streets too since the football team are the Georgia State Bulldogs. There are also music venues galore in this town.
I made my way out of downtown a few miles and found the house of Richard Saunders who is my Athens host. Richard is an older man but very active and loves organic gardening, biking, and sharing stories about the area. He cooked me a fantastic dinner of chicken, beans, and potatoes. All sautéed in loads of butter. Delicious!
After dinner, he provided some suggestions for things to see in Athens. It was sort of like a quest. The most mysterious was "The Tree that owned itself".
This morning, I made my way back downtown and had a brownie and smoothie at Jittery Joe's Coffee. I saw the Church Steeple from REM's first show. The actual church has been demolished for condos. The football business has been great for Athens. People buy condos to have a place to stay for the games. That's all they do, watch the games and the condo remains empty the rest of the time. Crazy! I also ventured over to the 40 Watt Club where REM played many times. I almost took in a show yesterday but was far too tired from my Hartwell Library stay. I'll go see some music today. I know there are a few breweries that have free music going on.
Trains are integrated within cities everywhere across America. They roll along and through the fringes on the town and hearing the trains is a common thing. I like that.
Aug.20th-Whoops
One of my greatest fears coming down here was my belief that everyone would either drink Coors Lite or Bud Lite. Thankfully, the closest I came to this nightmare was some free Miller Lites that someone offered me after a 120 km bike trip. I've been lucky enough to sample a great variety of craft beers.
I had a great last day in Athens and started by sampling some "Soul Food" with an REM twist. I made it down to Weaver D's restaurant near the river. The owner is known for saying, "Automatic" as a greeting. REM apparently asked him if they could use the phrase "Automatic for the People" for their album. They walked right in and asked him and he said yes. I explained that I was a first timer and he set me up with some collard greens (spinachy), fried okra, mac n' cheese, and fried chicken. I also had a huge cup of sweet tea. The restaurant is not fancy by any means but it is certainly popular. Every so often, he'd say, "Tanisha, tables are calling" which I think meant that Tanisha was supposed to wipe the tables. The coolest thing was there were a variety of ages and diversity there.
I headed back to Richards and got some laundry and a nap in. Richard and I then went out to a Mexican place for some food. Delicious. Popular with the college kids too. He told me that members of REM still lived down the street and occasionally did benefits here and there. It's all very casual. I am pretty short lived for nightlife so I declined to go see some music at night. 10 pm seems to be my limit.
I awoke early the next morning and found a Kroegers (Grocery chain). I had a breakfast of a Japanese apple, chocolate milk, yoghurt, and two donuts. Breakfast of Champions.
I then headed out to Gainsville and made good time down quiet country roads. I was still a little tired so I decided to have a nap on the concrete picnic tables at Jefferson. A great restful nap was achieved. In the afternoon, Google sent me down a road that was under construction. When the path veered into the forest, I was doubtful but decided to give it a shot. It was a bit muddy but it did take me out to the other road. On the other side of the Road closed sign, I saw that someone had bought a blockade of ducks as a warning for any who dared enter. One of the most curious sights I've seen on the trip! I made it into Gainsville without incident and at the local McDonalds, discovered that I was not in the town with the imfamous civil war prison, that was Andersonville and it was 300 km to my south. Whoops! To console myself, I decided to rest in a motel since there were no takers to put me up and the lure of outside camping seems to be fading. I'm also a little sore in the side. I'm sure it's just a mild case of appendicitis or a cracked vertebrae, I'll get it checked out first thing when I'm back in Canada.
Big achievements were fixing my brakes in Athens. I figured out the magic spot and now have two, ultra responsive breaks. Not too sure which way I am going to go. Perhaps Rome to Chattanouga? We will see...
I had a great last day in Athens and started by sampling some "Soul Food" with an REM twist. I made it down to Weaver D's restaurant near the river. The owner is known for saying, "Automatic" as a greeting. REM apparently asked him if they could use the phrase "Automatic for the People" for their album. They walked right in and asked him and he said yes. I explained that I was a first timer and he set me up with some collard greens (spinachy), fried okra, mac n' cheese, and fried chicken. I also had a huge cup of sweet tea. The restaurant is not fancy by any means but it is certainly popular. Every so often, he'd say, "Tanisha, tables are calling" which I think meant that Tanisha was supposed to wipe the tables. The coolest thing was there were a variety of ages and diversity there.
I headed back to Richards and got some laundry and a nap in. Richard and I then went out to a Mexican place for some food. Delicious. Popular with the college kids too. He told me that members of REM still lived down the street and occasionally did benefits here and there. It's all very casual. I am pretty short lived for nightlife so I declined to go see some music at night. 10 pm seems to be my limit.
I awoke early the next morning and found a Kroegers (Grocery chain). I had a breakfast of a Japanese apple, chocolate milk, yoghurt, and two donuts. Breakfast of Champions.
I then headed out to Gainsville and made good time down quiet country roads. I was still a little tired so I decided to have a nap on the concrete picnic tables at Jefferson. A great restful nap was achieved. In the afternoon, Google sent me down a road that was under construction. When the path veered into the forest, I was doubtful but decided to give it a shot. It was a bit muddy but it did take me out to the other road. On the other side of the Road closed sign, I saw that someone had bought a blockade of ducks as a warning for any who dared enter. One of the most curious sights I've seen on the trip! I made it into Gainsville without incident and at the local McDonalds, discovered that I was not in the town with the imfamous civil war prison, that was Andersonville and it was 300 km to my south. Whoops! To console myself, I decided to rest in a motel since there were no takers to put me up and the lure of outside camping seems to be fading. I'm also a little sore in the side. I'm sure it's just a mild case of appendicitis or a cracked vertebrae, I'll get it checked out first thing when I'm back in Canada.
Big achievements were fixing my brakes in Athens. I figured out the magic spot and now have two, ultra responsive breaks. Not too sure which way I am going to go. Perhaps Rome to Chattanouga? We will see...
August 20th-22nd-Leaving on that Midnight train from Georgia
I can't say that Gainesville was a fantastic tourist destination but I sure am exploring this part of North Eastern Georgia extensively. I spent two nights in Georgia catching up on tv and pizza. I awoke with good intentions and set out by 7:30 am. It was misty rain and I got caught in a downpour later but it soon turned into sunshine again. I got taken down a normal road but then saw a sign that said, "pavement ends 1'2 mile, road may be impassable". Gulp. I went on until it came to a two rut track and hoped the "Posted" signs weren't meant for the road. It turned from loose gravel to the bright, red mud of Georgia that I have come to know so well. Combined with the recent rain, it made for some muddy riding.I finally made it out of there but conked out just a little outside Juno when a Dollar General called my name. Two ice cream bars later, I was looking at the abandoned Texaco station in a new light as the storm clouds moved over. I set up near the old BBQ pit and had a nice little seculded spot where I read the rest of the afternoon. I played a little banjo in the evening and caught up on some writing and postcards. A couple of trucks pulled up but didn't stay long. I'm not even sure if they could see me.
I set out early again but the allure of Ellijay was just too strong. I even lined up a stay at a place just over the Tennesee border. I found a Food Lion which is always a good sign. It was like running into an old friend! They didn't have wi-fi so I hung out at the McDonalds which had a loitering policy that I choose to ignore. I checked a you tube video on deraileurs since I was down to one set of gears. I stopped by the library to stock up on books again having blasted through Joh Grisham's "Calico Joe". An excellent but short read. I consulted the librarians for info on the road ahead and heard I was going to be heading into some mountains. I even started going up the hill but then decided that if I was going into the mountains, I wanted a bike that worked even if its rider didn't! I turned it around and took it into a shop where the people treated me very well. They fixed me up quickly and even gave me a route to take that was gravel but had a really nice downhill. I'm sure it will make the entry into the Volunteer State. I also checked out "THE coffee shop" and had a great Caramel frappe/milkshake. They had one kind of postcard there only so I bought it. I made a half hearted attempt to find a couchsurfer but then scored a room at a quaint little hotel that was downtown. I am definitely breaking into Tennessee tomorrow. It sure is a hard state to spell correctly!
I set out early again but the allure of Ellijay was just too strong. I even lined up a stay at a place just over the Tennesee border. I found a Food Lion which is always a good sign. It was like running into an old friend! They didn't have wi-fi so I hung out at the McDonalds which had a loitering policy that I choose to ignore. I checked a you tube video on deraileurs since I was down to one set of gears. I stopped by the library to stock up on books again having blasted through Joh Grisham's "Calico Joe". An excellent but short read. I consulted the librarians for info on the road ahead and heard I was going to be heading into some mountains. I even started going up the hill but then decided that if I was going into the mountains, I wanted a bike that worked even if its rider didn't! I turned it around and took it into a shop where the people treated me very well. They fixed me up quickly and even gave me a route to take that was gravel but had a really nice downhill. I'm sure it will make the entry into the Volunteer State. I also checked out "THE coffee shop" and had a great Caramel frappe/milkshake. They had one kind of postcard there only so I bought it. I made a half hearted attempt to find a couchsurfer but then scored a room at a quaint little hotel that was downtown. I am definitely breaking into Tennessee tomorrow. It sure is a hard state to spell correctly!
August 22nd-24th Tennessee Homesick Blues
It was dark. Before I left the room in Ellijay, I decided to wear my longsleeved orange shirt and was surprised at how cool it was outside. I woke early and decided to get a nice, early headstart on the 105 km ride. I had front light and a new flashing back light so I felt protected. There was next to no traffic but the darkness was a little spooky. Every 300 metres or so, someone would have a porch light on but the rest of the road was black. My front light illuminated the white line to follow. A Dollar General wished me well from the darkness. For a terrible minute, I started imagining the tar repair strips on the road as snakes. I quickly pushed that thought from my head.
Yesterday, after the library, I went to the barber. I had a young shave my head and as we got to talking, he found out my story. When each barber came in from outside, he'd tell them about my bike trip. We discussd where I stayed and got on the subject of Chemical Trails. My barber, started talking about how the world might be flat. The members present had quiet the logic discussion. It was fun to listen to and done good naturedly. They remarked how they would barely be able to make it to the barber shop let alone cycle that far. WE had a few good laughs.
The guys in the bike shop told me about a Mountain Bike resort in the hills that had a great downhill. I checked it out and it was wonderful. The shop was still quiet. I heard a cook banging around in the kitchen but I didn't want to disturb them. So, I went on down the gravelly road that was bordered by a gently flowing river. There was no traffic at all so it was great. Even when I came out of the mountains and back down to paved road, it was quiet. I remember coming into Ellijay and seeing these bike lanes that lasted for about 1 km and then disappeared. There didn't seem to be much logic to it. The guy at the bike shop said they put them in as the road was repaved. That made sense.
I made a wrong turn so I ended up in CoHutta. I stopped and drank and wrote some postcards. When I checked the grocery stores in the area, I was disappointed to see a Food Lion about 8 km behind me. It took me only a few moments to decide that I would back track and feast since I hadn't since 6 am. I got there and had a potato salad, yoghurt, milk, and chef Boyardee. It was a great meal. I grabbed some Klondike bards from Family Dollar to finish it off. I am hanging out in the Ringgold Library to recharge my phone and take a rest. I've had a good day of pedaling and worked hard. Getting close to the Tennessee border and Chattanooga.
Yesterday, after the library, I went to the barber. I had a young shave my head and as we got to talking, he found out my story. When each barber came in from outside, he'd tell them about my bike trip. We discussd where I stayed and got on the subject of Chemical Trails. My barber, started talking about how the world might be flat. The members present had quiet the logic discussion. It was fun to listen to and done good naturedly. They remarked how they would barely be able to make it to the barber shop let alone cycle that far. WE had a few good laughs.
The guys in the bike shop told me about a Mountain Bike resort in the hills that had a great downhill. I checked it out and it was wonderful. The shop was still quiet. I heard a cook banging around in the kitchen but I didn't want to disturb them. So, I went on down the gravelly road that was bordered by a gently flowing river. There was no traffic at all so it was great. Even when I came out of the mountains and back down to paved road, it was quiet. I remember coming into Ellijay and seeing these bike lanes that lasted for about 1 km and then disappeared. There didn't seem to be much logic to it. The guy at the bike shop said they put them in as the road was repaved. That made sense.
I made a wrong turn so I ended up in CoHutta. I stopped and drank and wrote some postcards. When I checked the grocery stores in the area, I was disappointed to see a Food Lion about 8 km behind me. It took me only a few moments to decide that I would back track and feast since I hadn't since 6 am. I got there and had a potato salad, yoghurt, milk, and chef Boyardee. It was a great meal. I grabbed some Klondike bards from Family Dollar to finish it off. I am hanging out in the Ringgold Library to recharge my phone and take a rest. I've had a good day of pedaling and worked hard. Getting close to the Tennessee border and Chattanooga.
Aug. 25th-Pardon Me Miss, is that the Chattanooga Choo Choo?
I often don't lock my bike up anymore when going into stores now and I'm always optimistic but it's always there when I come back. I went to the Terminal in Chattanooga and saw a lady selling stuff but didn't have the nerve to ask her about the train in front of her.
Before I get into Chattanooga, I forgot an incident from Ellijay, Georiga. I took a tour of a historic house and in one section of the house, was a civil war exhibit. In a display case, there was a bunch of confederate bank notes. The third note from the top was a Canadian two dollar bill. I was puzzled as to why it was in there. I asked the guide who told me that it was in use during the war. I was skeptical at best. She asked me the date of the bill and it said 1954. She said that during the war, they used anything. There could only be one explanation-time travelers! They must have come back and put the note into circulation. I didn't feel it was my business to correct the guide and simply smiled.
Chattanooga is a spread out town. I checked out the Chickamunga battlefield briefly and got maps for the next day. I then travelled into the town to find my couchsurfing host. Again, the streets here are not designed for bikes and I found it was quite busy as it was rush hour. I made it to Jacquelines. I left some stuff on the porch and set off to find the music venue for that night 23 kms away. It didn't seem far but after 100 kms already, it was a little far. I was pretty tired when I got there. Still, it was fun to watch lonesome mountain play some bluegrass. I was trying to line up an uber to get me downtown but they didn't take bikes! I also found out that unless you cancel in 2 minutes, they charge you $2. I decided to call a regular old cab who had no trouble picking me up. It was getting late so I decided to forgo the other club and just head home.
I found my cab driver to be quite a nice guy. We talked about cab experiences since I occasionally drive a cab in Prince George. My days of night shift are long behind me but I do find it interesting. We traded war stories and he was blown away at how far I had biked. It's a hard living as a cab driver. Wouldn't wish it on anyone!
I was met at the door by "Crunch", Jacqueline's partner, and their dogs Eskimo and Cleo. Their house was old, quite open, and really spacious. I loved it. They even had a pool in the backyard. It's a transitional neighbourhood but still a really nice house. We sat at the kitchen table and I found out they sailed for 4 years and taught themselves how to sail. They've also hosted lots of cyclists through warm showers. Crunch has a frank world perspective and I enjoyed his monologues immensely. Really cool people.
I got up late the next morning, tired from my excertions yesterday, but headed out to check out the battlefield. I didn't really find it that interesting because there was a lack of signage explaining stuff and the battlefield was more monument markers than actual information. I didn't spend too long there. Perhaps I have had my share of civil war stuff.
I stopped into Wendy's and had a long conversation with a family about my trip. The dad of the group was riding from here to Atlanta. It was a 3 day supported trip. He was a little heavier so I was surprised to hear he was a cyclist but I wished him all the best.
I headed downtown to the guitar museum. The main roadway had bike trails and a secondary street did as well. There were a few pockets of run down houses. I was told that there are a few rings of poverty around Cha while the rest of the money lives on the mountains that overlook the city. I found the Chattanooga Choo-Choo. It was glorious. There was a big musical event there but at $45 a ticket, a little over my budget. I figured it would be more fun to have dinner with Jacquline and Crunch. I did find the guitar museum and really enjoyed looking at all the old guitars and learning the history of the makers. I also played a fender they had set up. I don't get to play electric too often and I miss the sound. It's a cool instrument. One of the most unusual instruments was the banjolin-a mix between a banjo and mandolin. Not quite sure how it sounds or how you play it but it looked sort of cool. For an extra $15, you could go into a private room and play some famous guitars. I choose to look through the window on that. There is a big bike race in town. I'm surprised no one invited me. I am off to Lynchburg tomorrow but it will probably be a 2 day trip since it is a little far. I'm running down and am ready to rest. Not sure how many more rides I got left in me.
Before I get into Chattanooga, I forgot an incident from Ellijay, Georiga. I took a tour of a historic house and in one section of the house, was a civil war exhibit. In a display case, there was a bunch of confederate bank notes. The third note from the top was a Canadian two dollar bill. I was puzzled as to why it was in there. I asked the guide who told me that it was in use during the war. I was skeptical at best. She asked me the date of the bill and it said 1954. She said that during the war, they used anything. There could only be one explanation-time travelers! They must have come back and put the note into circulation. I didn't feel it was my business to correct the guide and simply smiled.
Chattanooga is a spread out town. I checked out the Chickamunga battlefield briefly and got maps for the next day. I then travelled into the town to find my couchsurfing host. Again, the streets here are not designed for bikes and I found it was quite busy as it was rush hour. I made it to Jacquelines. I left some stuff on the porch and set off to find the music venue for that night 23 kms away. It didn't seem far but after 100 kms already, it was a little far. I was pretty tired when I got there. Still, it was fun to watch lonesome mountain play some bluegrass. I was trying to line up an uber to get me downtown but they didn't take bikes! I also found out that unless you cancel in 2 minutes, they charge you $2. I decided to call a regular old cab who had no trouble picking me up. It was getting late so I decided to forgo the other club and just head home.
I found my cab driver to be quite a nice guy. We talked about cab experiences since I occasionally drive a cab in Prince George. My days of night shift are long behind me but I do find it interesting. We traded war stories and he was blown away at how far I had biked. It's a hard living as a cab driver. Wouldn't wish it on anyone!
I was met at the door by "Crunch", Jacqueline's partner, and their dogs Eskimo and Cleo. Their house was old, quite open, and really spacious. I loved it. They even had a pool in the backyard. It's a transitional neighbourhood but still a really nice house. We sat at the kitchen table and I found out they sailed for 4 years and taught themselves how to sail. They've also hosted lots of cyclists through warm showers. Crunch has a frank world perspective and I enjoyed his monologues immensely. Really cool people.
I got up late the next morning, tired from my excertions yesterday, but headed out to check out the battlefield. I didn't really find it that interesting because there was a lack of signage explaining stuff and the battlefield was more monument markers than actual information. I didn't spend too long there. Perhaps I have had my share of civil war stuff.
I stopped into Wendy's and had a long conversation with a family about my trip. The dad of the group was riding from here to Atlanta. It was a 3 day supported trip. He was a little heavier so I was surprised to hear he was a cyclist but I wished him all the best.
I headed downtown to the guitar museum. The main roadway had bike trails and a secondary street did as well. There were a few pockets of run down houses. I was told that there are a few rings of poverty around Cha while the rest of the money lives on the mountains that overlook the city. I found the Chattanooga Choo-Choo. It was glorious. There was a big musical event there but at $45 a ticket, a little over my budget. I figured it would be more fun to have dinner with Jacquline and Crunch. I did find the guitar museum and really enjoyed looking at all the old guitars and learning the history of the makers. I also played a fender they had set up. I don't get to play electric too often and I miss the sound. It's a cool instrument. One of the most unusual instruments was the banjolin-a mix between a banjo and mandolin. Not quite sure how it sounds or how you play it but it looked sort of cool. For an extra $15, you could go into a private room and play some famous guitars. I choose to look through the window on that. There is a big bike race in town. I'm surprised no one invited me. I am off to Lynchburg tomorrow but it will probably be a 2 day trip since it is a little far. I'm running down and am ready to rest. Not sure how many more rides I got left in me.
Aug. 27th- Tracy City Thievery!
Last night I believe I was targeted. I had managed to find a spot to put my tent but in the night, my shoe was stolen! Luckily, they didn't get far and I was able to recover my shoe.
I had a good time during my last night in the Cha. Getting back home proved to be a bit of a nightmare because I had to get through a tunnel. The pedestrian walkway they built was for toddlers in 1854 and there was no way I could get my bike through. Thanks Nooga! I stuck my light of invincibility on the back of my bike and peddled as hard as I could. Run Forrest! Run! Never want to do that again. Crunch and Jacqueline were nice enough to cook me a great steak dinner with brussel sprouts, It was delicious! They were interviewing people to live with them in a commune type setting. They have interesting ideas on living in groups. I wonder if I should open up my own house? Their roommate joined us later for dinner and it turns out that Keisha is a teacher too. We didn't do much shop talk though. I played a little guitar by the pool while the others swam. They went out to a bar and I declined because it was a work day the next day. Eskimo the dog cuddled with me for a while until they came home.
I got ready the next morning and said good bye to all the animals and people. They were a fun bunch! I headed up to Lynchburg and had a scenic trail beside the river and the train tracks. I had a bit of an uphill but it wasn't too bad. The going was good until I hit Jasper. I stopped at a Grocery and had my breakfast of beefaroni, ice cream, and sweet tea. I found a great park and had a wonderful nap on a concrete bench. I considered stopping there but it was a bit early so I headed off again. Outside Jasper, there is a 5 km mountain road. It wasn't killer but in the sun it was tricky. I stopped a few times to cool off and finally reached the crest where there was a store. I ate pizza and had several cold drinks. I live for my drinks now. I felt really refreshed and set my sites on Sewanee which was about 30 km away but by the time I got to Tracy City, I was played out. I found an old highschool that had a great sports field and decided that it would be a good spot to stop. I then went back to town and found some food and drink. A little later I came back and to my surprise, met the guy who was looking after the grounds. Gary caught me brushing my teeth in the washroom and we got to talking. I gave him a story about going on to the next town to camp but then he invited me to camp. Sweet. Perhaps he knew I had no intention of going down the road. As events would later turn out, I should have gone on down the road. I set my tent up and read a bit before going to sleep. There were a tonne of dogs barking in the distance. I woke up in the dark to a dog whining and eyeing my cookies in my sidebag! I shouted at him and he ran away a bit. Then, I relaxed and called him over. He was brown and sort of a hound cross and liked pats. He tried to claw his way into the tent so I left the door open in case he wanted to come in again. He had a small, black friend who was content to just lie a little further in the distance. I went back to sleep again and woke later to see the black dog on the other side of the fence eating something. I thought the lawnmower chopped up some food container but then I looked down and saw that only one of my shoes was left! Thievery was afoot! I shouted at him and he stopped and I went around the fence to retrieve my shoe. That was a close one!
I set off bright and early and took a pause at Monteagle. I have forgot to mention that I am following a route called the Trail of Tears which is the route used to move the Cherokee out when Georgia took over their land. I got a break and was put on a trail called the Goathead Trail. Nice paved route that is in the forest and bordering the highway. Just what I needed after the stress of last night. I should make Lynchburg today and will press on just a bit so I can get into Nashville without being too tired.
I had a good time during my last night in the Cha. Getting back home proved to be a bit of a nightmare because I had to get through a tunnel. The pedestrian walkway they built was for toddlers in 1854 and there was no way I could get my bike through. Thanks Nooga! I stuck my light of invincibility on the back of my bike and peddled as hard as I could. Run Forrest! Run! Never want to do that again. Crunch and Jacqueline were nice enough to cook me a great steak dinner with brussel sprouts, It was delicious! They were interviewing people to live with them in a commune type setting. They have interesting ideas on living in groups. I wonder if I should open up my own house? Their roommate joined us later for dinner and it turns out that Keisha is a teacher too. We didn't do much shop talk though. I played a little guitar by the pool while the others swam. They went out to a bar and I declined because it was a work day the next day. Eskimo the dog cuddled with me for a while until they came home.
I got ready the next morning and said good bye to all the animals and people. They were a fun bunch! I headed up to Lynchburg and had a scenic trail beside the river and the train tracks. I had a bit of an uphill but it wasn't too bad. The going was good until I hit Jasper. I stopped at a Grocery and had my breakfast of beefaroni, ice cream, and sweet tea. I found a great park and had a wonderful nap on a concrete bench. I considered stopping there but it was a bit early so I headed off again. Outside Jasper, there is a 5 km mountain road. It wasn't killer but in the sun it was tricky. I stopped a few times to cool off and finally reached the crest where there was a store. I ate pizza and had several cold drinks. I live for my drinks now. I felt really refreshed and set my sites on Sewanee which was about 30 km away but by the time I got to Tracy City, I was played out. I found an old highschool that had a great sports field and decided that it would be a good spot to stop. I then went back to town and found some food and drink. A little later I came back and to my surprise, met the guy who was looking after the grounds. Gary caught me brushing my teeth in the washroom and we got to talking. I gave him a story about going on to the next town to camp but then he invited me to camp. Sweet. Perhaps he knew I had no intention of going down the road. As events would later turn out, I should have gone on down the road. I set my tent up and read a bit before going to sleep. There were a tonne of dogs barking in the distance. I woke up in the dark to a dog whining and eyeing my cookies in my sidebag! I shouted at him and he ran away a bit. Then, I relaxed and called him over. He was brown and sort of a hound cross and liked pats. He tried to claw his way into the tent so I left the door open in case he wanted to come in again. He had a small, black friend who was content to just lie a little further in the distance. I went back to sleep again and woke later to see the black dog on the other side of the fence eating something. I thought the lawnmower chopped up some food container but then I looked down and saw that only one of my shoes was left! Thievery was afoot! I shouted at him and he stopped and I went around the fence to retrieve my shoe. That was a close one!
I set off bright and early and took a pause at Monteagle. I have forgot to mention that I am following a route called the Trail of Tears which is the route used to move the Cherokee out when Georgia took over their land. I got a break and was put on a trail called the Goathead Trail. Nice paved route that is in the forest and bordering the highway. Just what I needed after the stress of last night. I should make Lynchburg today and will press on just a bit so I can get into Nashville without being too tired.
August 27th- Lynchburg
There's nothing quite as refreshing as a shot of jack Daniels after a long ride in the hot Tennessee sun. Just kidding, that's why I looked in on the distillery but choose to save myself a $17 and avoided the tour. The scent of sourmash is in the air. Not unlike Prince George perhaps. I stopped into the main square which sells...wait for it...Jack Daniels stuff. I stoppped into a store called Dixie Outfitters and had a lovely conversation with Kelly, the manager there. It's a bit right leaning and a little militant but I enjoyed my conversation with her. At the next shop, I was asked where I came from and had a good talk with the lady who'd been across Canada by car. I rewarded her by buying a drink and a Klondike bar. Anytime is Klondike time! lastly, I checked out the jailhouse museum. Johhny Cash had toured the facility and it was simple but it was a rough looking jailhouse. The shower went in in 1996, two years before it closed. The plumbing went in in the '60's. Not a fun place to spend time I think. The town itself is progressive in that they elected not 1 but 2 women sherrif's over the years. The curator himself had been a state trooper and had taken people into the jail.
The sun was burning hot so I decided to hold up and got a sweet room at the Country Inn. No shoe stealing dogs at that place! On a sadder note, I seem to have lost my Driver's License. This presents some small problems in my future but I'm trying to come up with solutions. Onto Nashville tomorrow! It's 125 km but I'm excited to do it. I've stopped at Shelbyville here for a quick update and am glad to see there's a Food Lion in the town. A full day of biking but I am getting to the end. Wish me luck!
The sun was burning hot so I decided to hold up and got a sweet room at the Country Inn. No shoe stealing dogs at that place! On a sadder note, I seem to have lost my Driver's License. This presents some small problems in my future but I'm trying to come up with solutions. Onto Nashville tomorrow! It's 125 km but I'm excited to do it. I've stopped at Shelbyville here for a quick update and am glad to see there's a Food Lion in the town. A full day of biking but I am getting to the end. Wish me luck!
August 27th-30th It's the Final Countdown
It is a tough thing which package of cookies to have for breakfast at the Dollar General. I woke up early today and decided to stop in. For those of you curious, I went with a package of Chips Ahoy. Don't worry...I chased it down with 2 quarts of White Milk. I had intended to go down to BISCUIT LOVE for my helping of biscuits n' gravy but I didn't feel I would really appreciate it after my gorging. The sad thing is there are no real stores downtown that aren't restaurants or bars. Thus the need to fill up on the outskirts of Nashville in East Nashville.
I had a great ride into Nashville and for the most part, the roads were great. I had a driver of American Tire Distributors blast his horn as he went by me on the deserted highway. I'm not sure he was being entirely supportive. Further down the line, I had a line of cars behind me because there was no shoulder so I had no choice. When I finally found some shoulder, a gentlemen (2d6 6y9-if anyone knows him) laid on his horn and gave me a solid middle finger salute. He looked at me long and hard to let me know how angry he was with me. Get in line sir, get in line. I pulled over at the Brentwood McDonalds for some cooling Dr. Pepper. The combination of the air conditioning and the icy drinks I consume en mass leave me shivering by the end of my stay. It was so busy at the store that when I ordered an ice cream cone, they just gave it to me. I wanted to pay the guy back but then I got worried that if his boss heard he was giving away free cream, he might get in trouble. So, I just appreciated the gift.
As you may have figured out, Nashville is not exactly set up for cycling. I had a great ride down music row and was amazed at all the recording studios! Maybe I would be discovered here!! My nephew Scott, was gracious enough to let me use his house even though him and his wife are moving. I kept getting closer to the city until I ended up on Broadway. Imagine the loudest noise and brightest lights you've ever experienced. Now, multiple that by 1000. I have long since become a country mouse, especially after being on quiet, rural country roads. I immediately got of broadway and found a pedestrian bridge over the river and onto quieter terrain. It still took me a bit to get to Scott's place and it was getting dark. It was a little nerve racking being so close to cars but I made it to the airstream and found the key. I opened the door and said, "hello?" but the house was completely empty. I did find some shandy in the fridge and helped myself to one. I managed to drink about half of it. It was weird to be in Nashville in an empty house.
I decided that I didn't feel like wasting the evening so I found a club that was close by and went to the East End Club. It was open mic comedy night. It wasn't bad. I'm ashamed to say that the funniest pieces for me were the guy who sang a song called, "How did my dog get AIDS?" I know AIDS is not something to make fun of but it was the premise that was funny in addition to the guy singing it in a '70's style kind of country song. The second line I laughed at was the guy saying that he didn't look down on homeless people that it was ok if they wanted to be dumb and lazy. I couldn't help but laugh because I relate to homeless people a lot in my life these days. I took LYFT both ways and found it was a pretty neat way to move around. I'm currently boycotting Uber based on the fiasco of Chattanooga. Lyft is quick and efficient and the drivers give me lots of good tips on what to do in Nashville.
I woke up early the next day and ended up at the Country Music Hall of Fame. It is a huge, expansive building. I took the regular tour and enjoyed myself. They had the beginnings of music and had the stories of a few big stars. I really enjoyed the stuff on Willie Nelson and found a few more names to explore-Guy Clark was one. I was happy to see a few more obscure artists recognized but didn't look too much at the newer people. Lots of talented people have come through Nashville. I was sad to notice the lack of a Harvey Cameron exhibit. My own nephews played in Nashville for several years.
I relaxed at one of the worst McDonald's ever. It wasn't dirty or anything. It had a loitering sign, no power outlets AND if you can believe it, a sign asking for a limit of one drink refill per customer. I heard a construction worker joking with his friend about the rule. I ignored it because I drink so much liquid. One refill was just not going to do it for me. With my power fading, I headed for Starbucks where I found a place to recharge and read.
Around 4:00 pm, I locked my bicycle up near the Station Inn (famous place for Bluegrass Music) and called a lyft to take me to the Bluebird Cafe. My nephews had recommended it. It was sold out but the first 10 people could get pew seating in the place. I got there and was number nine. Part of the process seems to be standing in the blazing sun for a few minutes before the show. They let us in and it was church pews. I sat beside a group who were at a conference. They were from California so we chatted about our side of the world burning. The show was about songwriters and there were 4 mikes set up. Sonia Lee, Lisa Brokop, Todd Sharp, and HoboCane. They went around and shared songs. The strangest thing was everyone listened! There is a Shhh rule and it appears on their t-shirts. My own favourite place has such loud talking for shows that it is hard to hear the music. I've played there to a wall of noise once. It would have been great to have the shh rule though I personally loathe the use of the word because it makes more noise than the person talking. I have a firm no -shh rule in my classroom! I think Lisa was actually Canadian and I didn't know of her before. Todd had played with Hall and Oates, ROd Stewart and had written with Christie McVie before. Quite impressive. The HObo guy wrote for Julio INgelse. These people were no slouches. It was an awesome 2 hours of music! I don't think anyone was actually from Nashville, they were all tourists. There was a huge contingent of Canadians around including an up and comer named Mckayla? She did a tune called, "Momma Don't Go" A beautiful song.
They kicked us out promptly at 8:45 because there was another show at 9 pm. I feel fortunate that I was able to get to go to such a famous place and see such great artists!
When I got back to the Station Inn, I grabbed my bike and just popped my head into the place to see what it was like. There was a $12 cover for "Farmer and Adele Band". I talked to the staff and was told there was music everynight. I left and gave it some thought and decided that I didn't come to Nashville to just sit around, I was going to see some music! So, I paid the $12 and went into the mostly empty place. They had bluegrass posters all over the place. When the band came out, they were a Country Western Swing type of band reminiscent of the Prarie Companion Radio Show. I was blown away at how entertaining it was. They entertained and were masters of their instruments! I feel like I have come to the centre of msuic creation here! When the show finished at 11:30, I nabbed a driver who would take my bike and I got a ride home. We talked Trump and my bike trip. A common theme these days. What will I do when this trip is over?
I woke up this morning thinking I had another day to get ready but got a text from my Nephew letting me know the closing on the house was that day and the others would be coming over. Yikes. I boogied out of the the overpriced Johnny Cash museum to the library where I put out some hail mary's for places to stay. I hustled back to Scott and packed up all my stuff and became a real biker again.
For the next three hours, I went along the industrial streets of Nashville to find bike shops. Green Fleet was in a lower income part of town and were completely unhelpful. They couldn't box my bike because they were busy AND did not have a bike box to begin with (Ironic because my nephew was nice enough to get me one, the problem being that I had to get a duffle bag to put my stuff in first and finding a duffle bag was tough too!) I asked him if he would lend me a wrench to help take apart my bike but he couldn't because of liability! What in tarnation????!!! I asked him if he could sell me a wrench but he did not have one. This was not good. He was good enough to direct me to the next store 5 km down the road. I considered going back to Scott's to grab the bike box but the problem remained that I would be sitting with a bike box in the middle of a city with nowhere to stay. The titans are in town (football team?) so there is no room at the Inn. My couchsurfing landed one guy who might host me but again, finding a duffle bag and place to box my bike was the priority. It felt like I biked and biked until I found Cumberland. They had a box, would lend me a wrench, AND they had duffle bags. Things were good. I would ride my bike around for another day and then take it down the next day. The nearby park looked promising as did the "Gulch" (an area where the restuarants and music places are). I wasn't too worried about that. I settled down at McDonald's and then got a text from Scott saying they'd pushed back the closing another day so I was off the streets! Glory! Glory! Glory! He did offer a place at his new place outside the city but I felt it was too far and I had some more organizing to do so I declined. It was nice of him to let me stay another night. I will go to Cumberland tomorrow, collapse the bike (WISH ME LUCK) and then go to the Station Inn tomorrow night, close it out, and then just take a ride to the airport. I've got mucho books and lots of postcards to write.
Tonight, I'm hanging out at the Station Inn. Can't wait to see what band is playing!
Aug 31st-Sept 1. I Touched the Rains Down in Africa
I knew that I was at a good southern BBQ by the Exorist-amount of flies around and the chickens scurrying under foot. Before I get on the BBQ, I felt good about preparing the leave and hung out reading in the Starbucks before heading down the street to the Station Inn. The band was called, "Love Cannon" and they were doing '80's covers in the bluegrass style. ONe of my favourite things is when bands take old songs and grass them up. This band was not dissappointing. In many ways, I feel as if I've come to the centre of musical creation. The players were all flawless and I could not believe the skill level. They started with "legs", moved to "Everybody Wants to Rule the World", "Kiss" and even did "I touched the Rains Down in Africa" Such a good night. I checked with the staff to make sure I could bring my bike in the next night and they were game. I tried to get a cab to take my bike but he said there was too much stuff on it. I didn't disagree with him. I called a lyft and got on no problem. It was good to sleep under a roof and I got out early the next morning. I made one last stop at the Dollar General and then headed to get some "Biscuit Love". I got there and there were only about 10 people in line. I got the East Nashville Biscuit which was a bisuit, with fried chicken, and sausage gravy on top. It was good but salty and filling. The place is an instituition. An hour later, there were about 20 people in line. I bought some cool artsy postcards.
I then headed to the bus stop and got a ticket for the trolley tour. It was so much fun. I learned so much about Nashville. Notable things were, Shel Silverstein wrote "One Piece at a Time". "The Giving Tree" is on e of my favourite books. And Gene Autrey used to rent a suite of a hotel for his horse! I can't remember much of anything else but I almost wish I had taken the tour on my first day so I could have had a better knowledge of the city. I really liked sitting down and taking the tour. I went back to the Bike shop and took down my bike successfully. It wasn't too bad and happened in a decent amount of time. My stuff fit within the bag and the banjo broke down well. I'm glad that it was able to make it through the whole trip. It looks lots rougher and has taken some hits but is still ticking. I think that is the theme of everything on the entire trip. I went to explore a bit more but conked out and ended up just waiting for my nephew Scott to pick me up. He was concerned that someone was going to steal my boxed bike but I reassured him that I knew the people and the city. It was still there when we picked it up. It was fun to see Scott again and I filled him in on the highlights of my trip. We went over to Braden's and found that he had chickens there. His bandmate Nick, also Canadian lives there and his other bandmate Scott came over as well. We had some good eats but the amount of flies was incredible and the chickens running around was surreal. One of the chickens actually jumped up on my knee which I thought was pretty funny. Nick kicked him off quite quickly. It was an enjoyable evening discussing chem trails and flat earth theories as well as the nuance between "hooking up" and "sexual assault". Each person had their own opinions.
Great fun was had discussing Scott leaving his airstream trailor in the driveway of a stranger because he couldn't get it up his own driveway. Lots of scenarios were discussed. Funny. I sensed a lack of enthusiasm for going out to the Station Inn so I just decided it was going to be an early night which was just fine. I had a great sleep in the old studio room which was filled with guitars.
In the morning, Braden was nice enough to drive me to the airport. We left the bike in the back of the truck but nobody was kind enough to steal it. It's an anchor of sorts. My mobility is so reduced when I have it in the box. I grabbed 6 reeses peanut butter cups and some pop for breakfast. I got to the airport and was able to rent a dolly for $5 but only need it for 25 metres. Luckily there was a 25 cent reward for bringing it back! :( Westjet was really nice about my bike when I told them that they were overcharging me. They quickly sorted it out and got me going. I cleared security and wrote the last of my postcards while I waited for my flight. Mary at the store agreed to mail them for me and didn't even want my monetary gift. What a great city! It's a little weird finishing up the trip and having the bike in a box. Strange to think my vacation is ending.
The flight was uneventful but I had such a difficult time clearing customs and figuring out where I was going. Made it through but it was tough to navigate. The flight to Vancouver was good as well and I found that I could just store my bike close to the luggage check AND luggage trolleys were free. I love that airport. I grabbed a cab and got to my hostel with no problems. It was fun to be back in the city. I grabbed a quick bite at a tiny sushi shop.
The next morning, I walked around Vancouver. I notice that people are as warm here and there is actually quite a bit of poverty here. Lots of people sleeping in doorways and parks. Its a contrast with the wealth of the neighbourhoods here. I love that when you're walking down the street, you can hear a myriad of languages. I stopped in at a Safeway and bought some muffins, chocolate milk, and a pack of ice cream bars. Probably the last set of bars I will eat now that I'm not riding. It's a pretty, mellow city filled with tourists. I bought my last set of postcards and was amazed that a domestic stamp was so much! I had forgotten they were so expensive, Had an enjoyable lunch with my friend Bryan and caught up after months apart.
This will probably be one of the last posts of my trip with the exception of a whole slew of photos to upload. I reflect on things that were lost: my drivers license, side bag, side bags retired in Fredericksburg, my ipod lost in the great rain of Harper's Ferry, my blue short in Niagara, my other blue shirt in Nashville, numerous broken sporks, etc. It has taken a toll on us all. Luckily, my bike has held out as have I. It's been fun. Numerous heros along the way too. Postal clerk in N. Carolina who gave me a bottle of water, Corin Raymond in hamilton putting me up in his house, the Tates in Arlington saving me from the big rain storm, Scott who gave me a mini sidebag, the gentleman in Blackstone who put me up with an hours notice, and many others. Such a positive experience of meeting people and experiencing the states. It will be strange heading back to school but I'm looking forward to seeing friends and seeing my dogs. I've missed them both. What a wrap on summer 2018. Lots of great memories, lots of reflection but not a whole lot of songs. Maybe they come later. To all who were a part of my trip, I thank you very much!
I then headed to the bus stop and got a ticket for the trolley tour. It was so much fun. I learned so much about Nashville. Notable things were, Shel Silverstein wrote "One Piece at a Time". "The Giving Tree" is on e of my favourite books. And Gene Autrey used to rent a suite of a hotel for his horse! I can't remember much of anything else but I almost wish I had taken the tour on my first day so I could have had a better knowledge of the city. I really liked sitting down and taking the tour. I went back to the Bike shop and took down my bike successfully. It wasn't too bad and happened in a decent amount of time. My stuff fit within the bag and the banjo broke down well. I'm glad that it was able to make it through the whole trip. It looks lots rougher and has taken some hits but is still ticking. I think that is the theme of everything on the entire trip. I went to explore a bit more but conked out and ended up just waiting for my nephew Scott to pick me up. He was concerned that someone was going to steal my boxed bike but I reassured him that I knew the people and the city. It was still there when we picked it up. It was fun to see Scott again and I filled him in on the highlights of my trip. We went over to Braden's and found that he had chickens there. His bandmate Nick, also Canadian lives there and his other bandmate Scott came over as well. We had some good eats but the amount of flies was incredible and the chickens running around was surreal. One of the chickens actually jumped up on my knee which I thought was pretty funny. Nick kicked him off quite quickly. It was an enjoyable evening discussing chem trails and flat earth theories as well as the nuance between "hooking up" and "sexual assault". Each person had their own opinions.
Great fun was had discussing Scott leaving his airstream trailor in the driveway of a stranger because he couldn't get it up his own driveway. Lots of scenarios were discussed. Funny. I sensed a lack of enthusiasm for going out to the Station Inn so I just decided it was going to be an early night which was just fine. I had a great sleep in the old studio room which was filled with guitars.
In the morning, Braden was nice enough to drive me to the airport. We left the bike in the back of the truck but nobody was kind enough to steal it. It's an anchor of sorts. My mobility is so reduced when I have it in the box. I grabbed 6 reeses peanut butter cups and some pop for breakfast. I got to the airport and was able to rent a dolly for $5 but only need it for 25 metres. Luckily there was a 25 cent reward for bringing it back! :( Westjet was really nice about my bike when I told them that they were overcharging me. They quickly sorted it out and got me going. I cleared security and wrote the last of my postcards while I waited for my flight. Mary at the store agreed to mail them for me and didn't even want my monetary gift. What a great city! It's a little weird finishing up the trip and having the bike in a box. Strange to think my vacation is ending.
The flight was uneventful but I had such a difficult time clearing customs and figuring out where I was going. Made it through but it was tough to navigate. The flight to Vancouver was good as well and I found that I could just store my bike close to the luggage check AND luggage trolleys were free. I love that airport. I grabbed a cab and got to my hostel with no problems. It was fun to be back in the city. I grabbed a quick bite at a tiny sushi shop.
The next morning, I walked around Vancouver. I notice that people are as warm here and there is actually quite a bit of poverty here. Lots of people sleeping in doorways and parks. Its a contrast with the wealth of the neighbourhoods here. I love that when you're walking down the street, you can hear a myriad of languages. I stopped in at a Safeway and bought some muffins, chocolate milk, and a pack of ice cream bars. Probably the last set of bars I will eat now that I'm not riding. It's a pretty, mellow city filled with tourists. I bought my last set of postcards and was amazed that a domestic stamp was so much! I had forgotten they were so expensive, Had an enjoyable lunch with my friend Bryan and caught up after months apart.
This will probably be one of the last posts of my trip with the exception of a whole slew of photos to upload. I reflect on things that were lost: my drivers license, side bag, side bags retired in Fredericksburg, my ipod lost in the great rain of Harper's Ferry, my blue short in Niagara, my other blue shirt in Nashville, numerous broken sporks, etc. It has taken a toll on us all. Luckily, my bike has held out as have I. It's been fun. Numerous heros along the way too. Postal clerk in N. Carolina who gave me a bottle of water, Corin Raymond in hamilton putting me up in his house, the Tates in Arlington saving me from the big rain storm, Scott who gave me a mini sidebag, the gentleman in Blackstone who put me up with an hours notice, and many others. Such a positive experience of meeting people and experiencing the states. It will be strange heading back to school but I'm looking forward to seeing friends and seeing my dogs. I've missed them both. What a wrap on summer 2018. Lots of great memories, lots of reflection but not a whole lot of songs. Maybe they come later. To all who were a part of my trip, I thank you very much!